Many travelers breeze past Alabama's only port city on their way to New Orleans, not realizing what they are missing.
Mobile's historic homes, buildings and garden district neighborhoods have a similar look and feel to the Big Easy, and the two cities have a similar history. The flags of five countries have flown over Mobile since 1702. This is where Mardi Gras was first celebrated in the New World. It's a place that holds fast to tradition and has learned to blend it nicely with the modern world, as evidenced by the success of Bayfest, the state's largest music festival that takes place on the streets of downtown each fall.
Downtown Mobile is a pastiche of old and new, with sleek modern skyscrapers now dominating a skyline rising over historic gas lamp districts containing centuries-old buildings. Like many U.S. cities whose downtown areas once suffered due to suburban migration in the mid-20th century, the shutters have swung open again, and the heart of Mobile is back in business.
Strolling Dauphin and Royal streets, you'll find an array of shops, eateries, brew pubs, and dive bars filled with character and live music pulsing from the doorways of nightclubs, all accented by the faint smell of brackish saltwater wafting in from the bay.
Start your trip at the Fort Conde Visitor Center -- a replica of the fort that used to stand on the site -- to pick up maps and get advice and info from the staff, then head across the street to the Museum of Mobile. Housed in the old City Hall building, the museum covers Mobile's 300-plus-year history and, through Dec. 2, has an exhibit remembering 9/11 called "Recovery: The World Trade Center Recovery Operation" that is so emotionally powerful museum staff had to place boxes of tissue throughout the gallery. On Dec. 4, there will be a holiday open house at the museum with free admission, entertainment and refreshments.
Before Mardi Gras season gets into full swing, Mobile has plenty of holiday events worthy of a road trip.
Don't miss
"Magic Christmas in Lights," Nov. 25-Dec. 31
If there is one don't-miss spot for Mobile during the holiday season, it is Bellingrath Gardens and Home's "Magic Christmas in Lights" display. Virtually every tree, bush, garden, walkway, building and trail on the 65-acre estate is lined with Christmas lights. It's a holiday tradition for Mobilians to bring the whole family for an evening stroll through the grounds to take in the spectacle of more than 3 million twinkling lights and nearly a thousand Christmas displays. There's also a live choir singing holiday tunes to add to the atmosphere. www.bellingrath.org.
Historic homes
Mobile has a few historic mansions that dress up for the holidays for special events that are open to the public. The Oakleigh Garden District is one of the more charming and eye-pleasing neighborhoods in Mobile, and it's home to the Oakleigh Mansion. On Dec. 3, Southern belles in period costumes will give tours of the mansion by candlelight, with a holiday reception to follow. For ticket info, call 251-432-6161 or visit www.historicmobile.org.
Other historic homes with events on the weekend of Dec. 3 are the Richards DAR House (www.richardsdarhouse.com) and the Bragg-Mitchell Mansion (www.braggmitchellmansion.com). Both homes will be decorated in the traditional fashion and offering tours, holiday entertainment and refreshments.
North Pole Stroll, Dec. 2
Artificial snow will be falling on Royal Street downtown for this family-friendly Friday night event that includes strolling carolers and musicians, visits with Santa and train rides.
Moon Pie Drop, Dec. 31
Royal Street is also the site of another Mobile holiday tradition, the Moon Pie Drop on New Year's Eve. In a tribute to the favorite sweet treat thrown from floats in Mardi Gras parades during Carnival season, the city drops a giant Moon Pie from a downtown skyscraper as throngs of people fill the streets for the countdown to the new year.
If you go
Mobile is a five-hour-and-20-minute drive from Atlanta on I-85 South and I-65 South.
Stay
The Battle House. This historic hotel, now operated by Marriott as a Renaissance property, underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation in the early 2000s and helped to spark a revitalization of the downtown area. Even if you don't stay here, stop in and take a gander at the ornate, soaring lobby. Rates start at $159. 26 N. Royal St., Mobile. 251-338-2000, www.historichotels.org.
Fort Conde Inn. Located in a historic pocket neighborhood next to downtown where gas lamps still illuminate the streets, this B&B is housed in the second oldest home in Mobile, with rooms recently renovated for the modern traveler but retaining an antebellum-era elegance. Rates start at $139. 165 St. Emanuel St., Mobile. 251-405-5040, www.fortcondeinn.com.
Eat
Wintzell's Oyster House. Landmark seafood restaurant downtown that has been in business since 1938. It's now an Alabama chain, but this is the original location, still popular with the locals as well as tourists. Full seafood dinners start at $11.99. 605 Dauphin St., Mobile. 251-432-4605, wintzellsoysterhouse.com.
Callaghan's Irish Social Club. A true neighborhood pub in the Oakleigh Garden District serving perfectly cooked burgers that taste like they came off the backyard grill. There's an impressive lineup of live music most nights, usually starting at 7 p.m. You may feel as if you're getting lost trying to find Callaghan's, as it's not located in a business district, but this place is worth seeking out. Under $10, plus a cover when there's live music inside. Sit outside if you don't want to pay the cover. 916 Charleston St., Mobile. 251-433-9374, www.callaghansirishsocialclub.com.
Visitor info
Mobile Bay Convention & Visitors Bureau. 1-800-566-2453, www.mobile.org.
Welcome Center at Fort Conde. 150 S. Royal St., Mobile. 251-208-7989.
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