A recent trademark kerfuffle over the name “chili crunch” brought more attention to the tingly Sichuan condiment than any trend story or cookbook ever could.
When David Chang’s Momofuku brand declared it was seeking to trademark the term, it was as if some Goliathan condiment king had decreed himself the only legal maker of ketchup or hot sauce. Ultimately, Momofuku backed down, meaning that the many smaller makers of chili crunch, chili crisp and other chile oil products could go on as usual.
The hot, flaming headlines may have singed the national psyche, but long before the controversy, chili crisp aficionados spooned the slick, oily, crunchy, nutty condiment over eggs, fried rice, noodles, tomato sandwiches and tomato salads — even ice cream. The sauce that turned Chinese entrepreneur Tao Huabi, now 77, into a billionaire is said to have been invented in 1984. She introduced the bright red jars of Lao Gan Ma (Old Godmother) spicy chili crisp to the public in 1997 — that’s her cameo on the label. Since then, the chili-crisp inferno has spread like raging wildfire around the globe. The company says it produces 1.3 million bottles of its various sauces per day.
During the pandemic, when many restaurants offered takeout and house-made versions of pantry staples, some concocted their own chili condiments. Ticonderoga Club had been serving its Chili Crush all along; all it had to do was jar it. Meanwhile, brands like Momofuku, Fly By Jing and Atlanta-born Pulp started showing up at grocery stores and markets. The myriad variations soon led to “best of” lists in national publications, viral recipes and entire cookbooks devoted to chili-crisp cookery.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
“Sichuan chili crisp is the vessel through which I’ve been able to express my love for my culture,” writes Jing Gao, the Chengdu-born chef and entrepreneur behind the six-year-old Fly By Jing brand. Last year, Gao published “The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp” (Ten Speed Press, $35), a compendium of stories and recipes for the likes of Sichuan Cacio e Pepe, Chili Crisp Sundae with Fish Sauce Caramel Brittle, and the Mala Margarita. There are instructions for making chile oils, chili crisps and other condiments galore.
And then there’s “Chili Crisp” by James Park (Chronicle Books, $25), a Korean-born food writer who grew up in Alabama and bills himself as an “unofficial chili crisp ambassador.” Because chili crisp wasn’t a part of his native culture, Park felt a little insecure about penning a cookbook on the topic. In fact, his outsider approach seems to have only unleashed his creativity.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
I’ve been cooking from his book for months and I’ve yet to try a recipe that wasn’t memorable. You might start with something as simple as the three-ingredient Chili Crisp Fried Eggs (try them over a bowl of warm white rice), then move on to the Cheesy Cornbread with Green Chiles (a nod to the South), Silken Tofu Soup or Korean-Style Mapo Tofu over Noodles. Both the soup and the mapo are easy to put together and have quickly become weeknight staples in my kitchen.
As you journey deeper into the chili-crisp universe, you may feel the need to concoct a jar of your own. (I’m pretty crazy about Park’s Very Nutty Chili Crisp, which I made with Georgia peanuts). Meanwhile, there are plenty of store-bought options. But first, a word of caution: It’s easy to become obsessed. I’ve recently switched from buying Lao Gan Ma’s 7.4 ounce jar to its jumbo-size 24.7-ounce baby. Amazing how quickly it disappears.
RECIPES
From Sichuan with love: chili crisp is the spicy condiment that makes America tingle. Use your favorite brand for these recipes, or create your own. If you can’t find ingredients locally, Nashville-based The Mala Market is an excellent mail-order source.
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Very Nutty Chili Crisp
Toasted nuts give this chili crisp an appealing crunch. If nut allergies are a concern, “Chili Crisp” author James Park suggests using seeds, such as sesame or pumpkin. Let your food processor do the chopping. Just be sure not to over-process; you want coarsely chopped nuts, not butter.
5 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes)
5 tablespoons Sichuan chile flakes
2 tablespoons Aleppo pepper flakes
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
1½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup coarsely chopped nuts, such as peanuts, pecans, walnuts, almonds, pistachios or pine nuts
1½ cups neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola
In a heatproof medium bowl, combine the gochugaru, Sichuan chile flakes, Aleppo pepper flakes, brown sugar and salt. Set aside.
In a dry small saucepan over medium heat, toast the chopped nuts for 3 to 5 minutes, or until lightly browned but not completely dark. Add the toasted nuts to the bowl with the spices.
In the same small saucepan over high heat, add the oil and heat for 3 minutes, or until lightly smoking.
Carefully drizzle the hot oil into the bowl of nuts and spices. If the oil doesn’t sizzle, heat the bowl of nuts and spices in the microwave on high for 30 seconds. Once the oil sizzles, let the bowl sit for 5 minutes for the flavors to bloom. Mix everything together.
Let the mixture come to room temperature, then transfer it to an airtight container. It can be stored in the refrigerator for about 3 months. You can store it at room temperature, but for longer storage, keep it in the refrigerator.
Makes about 2 1/2 cups.
Per tablespoon: 95 calories (percent of calories from fat, 94), trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace total sugars, trace fiber, 10 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 42 milligrams sodium.
— Adapted from “Chili Crisp: 50+ Recipes to Satisfy Your Spicy, Crunchy, Garlicky Cravings” By James Park (Chronicle Books, $25)
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Silken Tofu Soup
This recipe starts with the oil from a can of anchovies, then builds flavors by adding in the anchovies, alliums, gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes) and chili crisp. I always eat this dish with rice, but recently I discovered how good it is with Park’s recipe for Cheesy Cornbread with Green Chiles (see accompanying recipe).
1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets in oil (preferably Cento brand), minced, and oil reserved for cooking
½ cup chopped green onions (about 3), divided
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
6 garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
3 tablespoons chili crisp
2 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes)
3 cups chicken broth
2 pounds silken tofu
1 tablespoon fish sauce, plus more to taste
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
2 to 4 large eggs (1 per portion)
Cooked white rice, for serving
In a medium heavy-bottom pot over medium-low heat, add the oil from the canned anchovy fillets and heat for 1 minute. Once the oil is hot, add the minced anchovy fillets. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the green onions; add the rest of the green onions and the sliced onion to the pot. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the onion starts to look translucent. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the chili crisp and gochugaru to the pot; make sure the oil from the chili crisp is dispersed throughout the pot. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Be sure not to burn. Once the spices have bloomed and the smell of chile flakes is fragrant, pour in the chicken broth. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the onion is cooked and the minced anchovy disappears.
Cut the silken tofu into 1-inch chunks, add them to the pot, and simmer for another 8 to 10 minutes, or until the tofu warms and absorbs all the flavors from the broth. Add the fish sauce and toasted sesame oil while it simmers. Season the broth with more fish sauce to taste if necessary.
When ready to serve, bring the mixture to a hard boil by increasing the heat. Right before serving, crack an egg into each serving bowl. Ladle hot, hard-boiling broth right on top of the raw egg so that the heat from the boiling soup poaches the egg. Garnish the soup with the reserved green onions. Serve with a bowl of white rice.
Serves 2-4.
Per serving, based on 4: 323 calories (percent of calories from fat, 60), 23 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 21 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), 202 milligrams cholesterol, 1,047 milligrams sodium.
— Adapted from “Chili Crisp: 50+ Recipes to Satisfy Your Spicy, Crunchy, Garlicky Cravings” By James Park (Chronicle Books, $25)
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Cheesy Cornbread with Green Chiles
This is James Park’s chili-crisp twist on Southern cornbread. He suggests a square baking pan; I used the time-tested iron skillet.
1 cup cornmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola
2 to 3 tablespoons chili crisp, depending on desired spice level, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon soy sauce
3½ ounces cheddar cheese (in a solid block)
1 (4-ounce) can diced green chiles, drained
¼ cup salted butter, plus more for serving
Heat the oven to 425 degrees.
In a large bowl, add the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Mix to combine.
In a separate bowl (or large measuring cup), add the milk, oil, chili crisp and soy sauce. Whisk to combine.
Combine wet and dry ingredients, and stir until batter comes together.
Cut the cheddar cheese block in half. Cut half of the cheese block into small cubes. Grate the other half on the large holes of a box grater and set aside. Add the cheese cubes and green chiles to the batter and stir to combine.
Melt the butter. Pour the melted butter into a 9-inch square baking pan or a large cast-iron skillet and swirl it around until the butter coats all the sides. Transfer the batter to the greased pan. Using a silicone spatula, spread the batter evenly. Sprinkle the grated cheddar on top. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown.
Makes 9 to 16 squares.
Per serving, based on 9: 329 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 9 grams protein, 34 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 18 grams total fat (7 grams saturated), 32 milligrams cholesterol, 715 milligrams sodium.
— Adapted from “Chili Crisp: 50+ Recipes to Satisfy Your Spicy, Crunchy, Garlicky Cravings” By James Park (Chronicle Books, $25)
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Chilled Sesame Noodles
I crave restaurant-style sesame noodles and have been on the search for a recipe to make at home. Jing Gao, founder of the Fly By Jing brand of Sichuan condiments, comes to my rescue in her cookbook, “The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp.” Look for fresh Chinese noodles in the refrigerator case of Asian markets, or use any kind of dry noodle, including spaghetti or vermicelli. For the sauce, peanut butter works like a dream. If using sesame paste, be sure to seek out the Chinese version. In a pinch, you may use tahini, but it won’t have the same deeply roasted flavor as the Asian style.
To make ground Sichuan pepper, roast 2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns over low heat in a heavy skillet for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently and making sure not to burn. Using a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, grind pepper to a fine powder. Sift out the inner husk, which is hard to grind and doesn’t add much flavor. Store leftover powder in an airtight container.
1 pound Chinese noodles
1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola
1 cucumber, julienned into 2-inch batons
2 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons Sichuan chili crisp
3 tablespoons roasted sesame paste or peanut butter
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons black vinegar
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
¼ teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see recipe headnote)
Roasted sesame seeds, sliced scallions (green parts only) and chopped cilantro, for garnish
In a large pot over high heat, bring water to a boil and cook the noodles according to the package instructions until they’re al dente. (Cooking time will vary based on your choice of noodles.) Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse under cold water to stop them from cooking.
Transfer noodles to a large bowl and add the neutral oil, mixing to prevent the noodles from sticking together. Set aside.
Place the cucumbers in a medium bowl, sprinkle with the salt, and gently massage the cucumbers with your fingers to coat. Set aside for at least 15 minutes to let the water sweat out. Drain the liquid. The cucumbers should taste well-seasoned and just slightly crunchy.
In a small bowl, combine chili crisp, sesame paste, soy sauce, black vinegar, sesame oil, sugar, garlic and ground roasted Sichuan pepper. Mix well. If you want a slightly looser consistency, dilute sauce with 1 to 2 tablespoons of water.
Place cucumbers in the bowl with the noodles, pour the sauce over it, and, using tongs, mix well to combine. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
Transfer the chilled noodles to a serving bowl and garnish with the sesame seeds, scallions and cilantro.
Serves 4.
Per serving: 627 calories (percent of calories from fat, 27), 11 grams protein, 102 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams total sugars, 3 grams fiber, 19 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), no cholesterol, 1,513 milligrams sodium.
— Adapted from “The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp” by Jing Gao (Ten Speed Press, $35)
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