RECIPES: Stew three ways

The stovetop, with its direct heat, is ideal for searing meat. This locks in the flavors and creates a tasty fond at the bottom of the pot. Adding a bit of broth to the fond not only adds great flavor to the dish, but also helps to loosen it. When you turn the heat to low, the meat and vegetables tenderize slowly, resulting in a delicious pot of goodness.

Oven-cooked stews are usually made using the low and slow method, which allows the ingredients to break down and become tender. The gentle and constant heat in the oven yields a stew that will simply melt in your mouth.

And then there’s the slow cooker — the unsung hero of busy households. It provides a hassle-free way to create heavenly stews. However, taking a little time to warm the spices and cook the onions on the stovetop before adding them to the slow cooker can yield superior results.

For oven and stovetop stewing, I always reach for my Dutch oven, which is the workhorse of my kitchen. Its heavy construction can withstand long cooking times, and the heavy lid traps the steam, keeping the contents moist. It also holds heat well, so dinner can wait a few minutes out of the oven or off the heat before serving.

Have you ever had a stew that tasted dull or flat after cooking? Sprinkling an additional bit of something acidic over the top before serving can instantly brighten up the flavors. Lemon or lime juice or zest, or even a dash of vinegar, can do wonders. Additionally, a topping of freshly chopped herbs can awaken a sleepy stew.

If your long-cooked dish has produced too much thin liquid, whisk together 2 teaspoons of cornstarch and 2 teaspoons of cold water. Stir this mixture into the hot liquid over low heat and continue stirring occasionally until the liquid has thickened.

The best part about a stew, however, is its flexibility. Each of these recipes can handle substitutions. No carrots? Diced sweet potatoes make a great substitute. No olives? A tablespoon of capers will do. Russet potatoes and carrots can be used as stand-ins for the vegetables in the lentil stew.

Cynthia Graubart is a James Beard Award-winning author of 13 cookbooks. Follow her at cynthiagraubart.com.

RECIPES

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

The following recipes exemplify the three ways stews can be cooked. Lemon-Lime Beef and Carrot Stew (stovetop) uses lemon and lime juice to add a burst of flavor, and topping it with zest before serving keeps the flavors bright. Chicken Stew with Dried Fruit and Olives (oven) incorporates cumin and ginger for a spicy twist, and a squeeze of fresh lemon wakes up the finished dish. Slow Cooker Lentil Stew with Cauliflower gets its warmth from curry powder, ginger and cardamom. Sprinkling chopped fresh cilantro over the stew brings it to life when serving.

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

Lemon-Lime Beef and Carrot Stew

Adapted from my family’s favorite pot roast recipe, this recipe is made even easier by using pre-cubed stew meat. Marinating is essential for the flavor of the dish. Although a few hours of marinating is ideal, just 30 minutes makes a difference. By tossing the meat in flour and adding broth, the liquid will thicken slightly while cooking.

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

Chicken Stew with Dried Fruit and Olives

Dried fruit is a cheerful way to brighten a winter dish. If a package of mixed fruit isn’t available, substitute the same amount of dried plums or apricots. The olives are cook’s choice; we like the mixed Greek olives from the olive bar at the grocery store. Substitute your favorite, and let any guests know if there are pits before serving.

You can make this dish with boneless, skinless chicken thighs, but it won’t be nearly as luxurious.

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 medium onions, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 teaspoon ground ginger

2 small or 1 large fennel bulb, stalks and fronds removed, sliced thinly

1 cup roughly chopped mixed dried fruit

1 cup mixed Greek olives

4 cups chicken broth

1 lemon, sliced for garnish

Heat oven to 350 degrees with the racks positioned to accommodate your Dutch oven.

Heat olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Sprinkle chicken thighs with salt and pepper and add to the pot skin-side down. Cook, in batches if necessary, until skin is browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and discard all but 2 teaspoons fat from the Dutch oven. Add the onions and saute over medium heat until translucent, about 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cumin and ginger and turn off the heat. Remove and discard the skin from the chicken thighs and add the chicken thighs to the pot. Add the fennel, dried fruit and olives. Stir to mix. Pour in the broth, cover with a lid and place in the preheated oven.

Bake the stew until the chicken falls from the bone, about 2 hours. When the stew is done, remove from oven and allow to cool slightly. Using a fork and large spoon, remove and discard the bones and cartilage from the thighs (they’ll slide right out). Use 2 forks to shred the chicken in the pot and stir. Serve hot garnished with lemon slices. Refrigerate leftovers up to 3 days, or freeze up to 3 months. When reheating, the stew may need additional broth for a thinner consistency.

Makes about 8 (3/4-cup) servings.

Per serving: 310 calories (percent of calories from fat, 35), 19 grams protein, 31 grams carbohydrates, 20 grams total sugars, 2 grams fiber, 12 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), 94 milligrams cholesterol, 663 milligrams sodium.

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

Credit: CHRIS HUNT

Lentils, cauliflower and sweet potato combine to create a filling stew brought to life with the warm spices of curry powder, ginger and cardamom. Heating the seeds and sauteing the vegetables enhance the flavors in this dish, but if time is of the essence, all the ingredients can go into the slow cooker at the same time.

If made with vegetable broth, this recipe is vegan. Meat eaters can substitute chicken broth and stir in sliced cooked chicken sausage before serving.

Slow Cooker Lentil Stew with Cauliflower

Heat a large dry skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds and toast until fragrant and beginning to pop, about 1 minute, being careful not to burn the seeds. Add the oil, onion, bell pepper and celery and cook until onion and pepper are soft, about 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, curry powder, ginger and cardamom, and cook until spices become fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Transfer the spice and onion mixture to a slow cooker. Add lentils, cauliflower, sweet potato, tomatoes, broth and bay leaves. Stir well to combine. Cook until lentils and sweet potato are tender, about 5 hours on Low.

Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed. Stir in lemon juice just before serving and top with fresh cilantro, if desired. Refrigerate leftovers up to 3 days. Although the dish may be frozen up to 3 months, the texture of the lentils will become mushy. Reheated leftovers may need additional broth for a thinner consistency.

Makes 6 (1-cup) servings.

Per serving: 218 calories (percent of calories from fat, 11), 12 grams protein, 40 grams carbohydrates, 9 grams total sugars, 8 grams fiber, 3 grams total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 604 milligrams sodium.

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