Lesser-known cut is a tender, juicy treat in Chamblee

The food at the Alden often arrives sprinkled or flanked with flowers and foams as artfully curated as a painting, but chef Jared Hucks also cooks a mighty fine steak.

Attuned to local, sustainable sources, Hucks uses a lesser-known but delectable coulotte cut of wagyu beef from Chatel Farms in Reidsville. He lightly cures the firm (but no less tender) cut with salt. If you are seated at the chef’s counter, you can watch him pan-roast the meat, basting with butter, garlic and herbs until it is medium-rare. He slices and plates it alongside roasted mushrooms and purees of celeriac and carrot. His signature black onion jam — made from burnt, caramelized alliums — adds a sweet, savory punch.

The prettily plated meat is remarkably tender and juicy. It’s not Flintstone-ian in size but is enough to relish the flavor. Red wine jelly, reduced from cabernet and thickened with a plant-based stabilizer, adds a slick, robust accent. The dish is available a la carte and on the tasting menu.