This Atlanta burrito isn’t just your mom’s meat and potatoes

When you’re trying to decide where to eat, sometimes a fusion restaurant — such as Indian-Chinese — scratches your itch. At other times, you might want the down-home Midwestern comfort of meat and potatoes while your companion craves tacos. That was my dilemma, and then I found the Brookhaven at Bell Street Burritos.

Wrapped in foil as a burrito, it has just the right amount of ingredients. The dish’s elements closely resemble a thrown-together casserole: meat and potatoes in a hefty handheld. It’s portable, needs no silverware, and the foil locks in the heat, as well as the faint buttery char scent of the grilled flour tortilla (a slight upcharge from steamed).

Ground beef, potatoes, fluffy white rice, cheese dip and mild red sauce are folded together, striking a balance of flavors and textures. The savory flavor of the browned meat, mixed with tangy melted cheese, rice and fork-tender potato, provides straight-up comfort. You can customize it from a list of add-ons, but it’s nice as it is.