While it may not be dead, fine dining has arguably been on life support for a while, giving way to concepts so casual that some critics have complained they can’t even be called restaurants. Whatever your take on the argument, come Valentine’s Day or any special occasion, standing in line for a taco probably isn’t the way to impress that certain special someone.
This story originally appeared in the January 2016 issue of Living Intown magazine.
But never fear. Fine dining has seen a resurgence with new restaurants that not only have tablecloths instead of butcher paper, but also offer the kind of ambiance that elicits descriptions like "romantic" and "sexy" and "sophisticated."
Marcel’s certain je ne sais quoi
Atlanta chef/restaurateur Ford Fry's Marcel, a French-inspired classic American steakhouse, is a sexy, beefy beast that defines the retro-modern style.
With dishes like escargot, table-side Caesar salad, beef Wellington and a porterhouse for two, dinner here can cost you. But the level of the food and service matches the prices, while Marcel's look and feel are seriously romantic.
Fry's conceit for the design draws from French boxing champion Marcel Cerdon and his scandalous, ultimately tragic affair with chanteuse Edith Piaf. Hauntingly, the voice of "the little sparrow" sometimes wafts from the sound system, alternating with classic jazz music.
Dim lights and dark corners give the plushy dining room a kind of sinfully sub rosa aura. Vintage photos of Cerdon arranged above the bar celebrate the boxer's matches and rugged handsomeness.
"It's dark and it's glowing," Fry says of the scene. "Nowadays, we go for natural light. But natural light isn't necessarily the most romantic thing. I think the banquettes in the bar area are special because you get to sit next to your date. And we have a lot of dishes that are made to share. It's cozy and sexy, like you're tucked away somewhere secret."
1170 Howell Mill Road. 404-665-4555. marcelatl.com
Atlas’ artistic atmosphere
In early 2015, Atlas opened to replace Paces 88 at the luxurious St. Regis Atlanta hotel in Buckhead. The sophisticated (but not stuffy) restaurant features a classic American menu with European influences.
Created with consulting chef/restaurateur Gerry Klaskala of Aria and Canoe, the dinner-only spot exudes subtle refinement with seasonal menus that offer the likes of pan-roasted foie gras, truffle potato pierogi dumplings, walnut-crusted rainbow trout and dry-aged rib-eye, plus a big book of wine.
Designed by Bill Johnson of the Johnson Studio, the elegant interior cradles you within its dark lacquered walls, overstuffed upholstered banquettes and rich leather chairs. There's a library with a roaring fire and books selected to reflect Atlanta history and culture.
Perhaps most surprisingly, the space offers a home to works from the Lewis Collection, one of the largest private art collections in the world. So, yes, you may be dining in view of a Picasso, van Gogh or Chagall.
"It's easy to get lost in a space you spend 60 hours a week in," says Atlas general manager Jason Babb. "But every once in a while, when I'm locking up at night, I stop and look around and say, 'Wow. This is a beautiful room.' It's just a beautiful place to be.
"I think the design that Johnson Studio did is stunning with the warm colors. It's almost like being in someone's living room for dinner. It's comfortable, it's cozy, and the wait staff takes hospitality seriously, but they have fun with it. We want everyone to have a good time."
88 W. Paces Ferry Road. 404-600-6471. atlasrestaurant.com
Out for a spin at Sun Dial
More than a business and special occasion restaurant, the Sun Dial is a downtown Atlanta landmark and tourist attraction rotating atop the cylindrical Westin Peachtree Plaza.
After a major renovation in 2013, chef Jason Starnes updated the menu with nods to local and seasonal ingredients, reflected in creations such as charred carrot carpaccio. But there's also an array of rich signature dishes, such as lobster pot pie and bone-in prime rib for two.
The Sun Dial experience begins on the lower level of the Westin, where you're directed to the iconic glass elevators that travel 73 floors and 723 feet to the top, affording dizzying glimpses of downtown Atlanta on the way up.
Seated at a window table in the circular revolving dining room, the scene slowly changes to reveal the entire metro area, from highways and buildings to familiar sights such as Stone Mountain. Get there at sunset to bask in the glow of the dramatic and romantic views.
"You see a lot of interesting things up here," Starnes says. "In the 20 years I've been in this business, I've never seen as many wedding proposals as we tend to see in this restaurant. It's actually kind of fun to be in such a romantic place.
"But it's also been a fun challenge to be able make the culinary side match the view. We definitely do a special Valentine's menu every year, and we focus on giving people an experience with food and service that they're going to remember along with the view."
210 Peachtree St. 404-589-7506. sundialrestaurant.com
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