Story by Pamela A. Keene. Photos by Jenni Girtman.
You don’t need a passport or an airline ticket to find exotic flavors when you visit Atlanta’s many international markets, which offer such delicacies as fish from Scandinavia or the notorious durian fruit of Southeast Asia: “Smells like hell; tastes like heaven.”
When I was in Southeast Asia in 2016, our tour guide introduced us to new taste sensations, including dragon fruit, purple mangosteen, longan, pomelo, rambutan and a half-dozen types of rice. Some of us even tried deep-fried grasshoppers in Laos.
My visits to international markets have increased since my trip. They offer a more diverse selection and more affordable prices than traditional Western grocery stores, plus it’s an adventure to bring home fresh oyster and Enoki mushrooms, bok choy, and other ingredients to recreate dishes from my travels.
Western grocery stores have broken into the international market by stocking products from around the world. But beyond the likes of Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods, authentic international markets offer sights, scents and flavors beyond the traditional American diet.
International markets are mostly found in older shopping centers in Atlanta’s multi-cultural communities, such as the Buford Highway corridor, Duluth, Decatur and Clarkston. Although they many specialize in one culture, they also may stock products from other parts of the world, such as Asia, India, Mexico, South America and Europe.
Flags from around the world greet shoppers at The DeKalb Farmers’ Market (dekalbfarmersmarket.com), which offers a thorough mix of cultural mix of cultural options. The Buford Highway Farmers Market (aofwc.com) specializes in Asian and Hispanic products, offers Korean take-out, has a cafeteria at the front of the store and operates an Eastern European bakery and deli with fresh-made pastries. Asian-inspired H Mart, (nj.hmart.com) has five locations in the metro Atlanta area – Doraville, Duluth, Johns Creek, Riverdale and Suwanee – and sells fresh meats and produce, ready-to-serve prepared foods, household products and baby/kid items.
Serving Atlanta’s large Hispanic population, butcher shops, or “carnicerias,” specialize in meats but offer other Latin American foods as well. Generally much smaller than their Asian counterparts, they’re typically tucked in smaller strip shopping centers and have a smaller percentage of Western patrons. Some sell prepared foods and offer restaurant service.
Erick Bae is regional manager for Assi Plaza International Food’s two Atlanta stores in Suwanee and Duluth. “We have a lot of Western customers who have found a recipe on the internet and come in seeking specific ingredients, which are more available in an international supermarket,” Bae says. “Just remember that sometimes these items have different names in their native cultures than in English. We’re always happy to help.”
On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, Assi offers samplings for customers. “We have 10 or so sampling stations to introduce people to our products,” Bae says. “It’s a good way for people to get a taste of what we offer and how it can be prepared.”
The Duluth store has a multicultural food court with a dozen restaurants offering sushi, baked goods, and other prepared foods, plus Mexican, Korean, Filipino, Indian, Peruvian and Russian cuisine. The front of the store features retail shopping for furniture, housewares and more.
Don’t be surprised to encounter a language barrier. Many of the markets offer unusual types of rice, noodles and soups, but preparation instructions on the packaging are often in the language of the country of origin, and some may lack an English translation. The internet can provide a resource for how each can be prepared. You can also purchase fresh herbs and spices not commonly found in bulk in Western grocery stores.
“Our prices are lower than in Western markets,” Bae says. “First, we buy in bulk. Second, we want to duplicate the pricing and packaging that most of our customers are accustomed to.”
Andrea Mireles and her husband Guillermo, who live in Bethlehem in Barrow County, frequently visit at Assi Plaza in Duluth.
“I’m Polish and he’s Mexican, so we often come here to purchase foods that we grew up with,” she says. “With all the international people living here who want to continue their culture and share it with their friends and neighbors, it’s a great place to shop. Plus it’s more of a world connection, because of all the different foods available and the languages that people speak here. It’s like taking a trip to another country without leaving home.”
But don’t expect to find deep-fried grasshoppers. Yet.
Insider’s tip
A first-time visit to an authentic international market can be overwhelming because of the variety of fresh and prepared products. Come prepared to browse, use your phone to take photos of intriguing items, then research recipes on the internet.