Q. I brought back a few dried olives from Israel. I would like to plant them in our back yard. What is the best way to ensure they will grow and how do I care for them? -- Joseph Wallenstein. e-mail
A. Georgia once had an olive growing industry along our coast but a hurricane in 1898 wrecked the olive groves. A few trees survived in landscapes but no one has attempted commercial olive growing in Georgia until recently. Blueberry farmers have taken the lead in experimenting with olives. They note the similar equipment used for care of the plants and that South Georgia, near the Florida line, has a climate similar to Spain, Italy and Israel. The key seems to be finding varieties that tolerate cold weather without damage and that can be easily harvested. If you want to experiment, remove the seed from the skins and soak the seed in soapy water overnight to remove deleterious oils. Place the seed in a pot filled with moist potting soil and press them into the surface. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and keep it in a warm, sunny window for several weeks. If the seeds germinate, remember they may not be at all cold-hardy and that the fruit may well be smaller than the original source. Keep me updated on your progress! See xrl.us/georgiaolives.
Q. I saw in your e-mail garden newsletter that you recommend commercial insecticidal soap, not homemade. Why can't I make my own stuff? -- Pierre LeHors, e-mail
A. I usually hear of people using dish detergent in their insecticide concoctions, which can burn plant leaves. There is a considerable difference between detergent, bar soap and insecticidal soap. Despite advice from amateur sources, commercial insecticidal soaps are far superior.
What we call “soap” is a substance made by combining fat with an alkali, like sodium hydroxide, which will yield a hard soap, or potassium hydroxide, which yields a liquid soap that can be sprayed. Only a few of the many fats available have the insecticidal properties you want. Most household soaps and detergents are mildly harmful to leaves. They are herbicides instead of insecticides. Buy brand-name insecticidal soap and be safe.
Q. My friend has had a Norfolk pine for 32 years that has grown just short of the ceiling. Should she raise the roof or can it be pruned in some way? -- Dick Kretzmer, e-mail
A. She can remove the top now but the tree will try to put out a new bud and establish a fresh leader where the first was removed. Topping won't encourage more limbs lower on the plant. She can maintain the shape the tree has now by regular removal of the tip bud when it begins to grow.
Q. Please tell me where I can get the material to go around pecan trees to keep worms off. -- Sybil Cook, Lithonia
A. Tanglefoot is a sticky product that is applied to pecan trees to prevent pecan weevil damage and to rhododendron to control black vine weevil. To keep the material from staining the bark, wrap wide masking tape around the trunk before spreading it. I found Tanglefoot at Intown Ace Hardware on Scott Boulevard in Decatur but other garden centers may have it as well.
Listen to Walter Reeves Saturday mornings on AM 750 and now 95.5 FM News-Talk WSB. Visit his website, www.walterreeves.com, or join his Facebook Fan Page at xrl.us/wrfacebook for more garden tips.
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