Story by H.M. CAULEY
Think “Italian” about nearby eateries and meatballs, veal piccatas and simmering bolognese sauces of pork and beef might come to mind. Diners craving those flavors will find them in the kitchen at Cibo e Beve, where Executive Chef Linda Harrell oversees hearty dishes of lamb racks, filet mignons and more.
But not everyone who crosses the threshold of the Sandy Springs restaurant is ready for meat. As diners are increasingly committed to vegetarian options, Harrell knows the importance of offering choices that are flavorful but less meaty. One of her favorites is a vegetable lasagna that subs in healthier options to create the layered entrée.
“I’ve often had veggie lasagna on the menu before, and in fact, I used to do one in particular with a pumpkin cream that was just delicious,” says Harrell, who has overseen the Cibo operation since it opened in 2011. “And I know people like to make veggie lasagnas at home.”
Harrell is among those home cooks who prefer the meat-free version of the classic Italian dish, as well as others.
“Personally, meat sauce is my last go-to,” she says. “When I have pasta, most of the time, it’s vegetarian. My favorite is garlic, crushed red pepper and olive oil with some zucchini or onion. Or I might use fresh tomatoes with a little garlic, basil and olive oil or shallots and spinach. Each time, I use a different pasta, and it’s always delicious.”
Accommodating vegetarian requests at the restaurant is just as easy, Harrell says, who regularly serves a risotto with trumpet mushrooms and butternut squash, as well as roasted cauliflower and crispy Brussels sprouts.
“I think Italian food is very easy to do as a vegetarian dish. You have pasta as the vessel, and then you can add different vegetables and sauces. It’s actually a great go-to if you’re vegetarian.”
Harrell shared an easy vegetarian lasagna that she’s served often. It’s not only healthy; it’s almost easier when the meat prep steps are omitted. Mangia!
Cibo e Beve. 4969 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs. 404-250-8988. Ciboatlanta.com
Linda Harrell’s Vegetarian Lasagna
Ingredients:
2 pounds pasta sheets, cooked
2 zucchini, thinly sliced (1/4 inch) and roasted
1 eggplant, thinly sliced (1/4 inch) and roasted
2 pounds fresh spinach, sautéed and squeezed to remove excess liquid
1 pound of mushrooms, thinly sliced (1/4 inch) and roasted
1 quart fresh tomato sauce
1 pound ricotta cheese
1 ½ pounds shredded mozzarella
Besciamella (white sauce) for topping
6 ounces flour
6 ounces butter
2 quarts milk
Pinch of nutmeg
Salt and white pepper to taste
1 cup grated Parmesan
Sauce directions
*Dissolve the butter in a pan and add the flour. Stir until the mixture forms a smooth paste that leaves the sides and base of pan cleanly. Cook for a minimum of 2 minutes to reduce the taste of the flour.
*Pour in approximately one-fifth of the quantity of milk, and allow to boil without stirring. Then stir until the mixture blends smoothly, beat vigorously and add the remaining milk, beating well after each addition.
*Add 1 cup of grated parmesan to besciamella and hold on the side.
Lasagna directions
Preheat the oven to 375 F.
*Spoon 1/2 cup of the tomato sauce into the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Top with a layer of the pasta, slightly overlapping.
*Spread one-third of the ricotta over the pasta, then add one-third of the vegetables and ½ cup of tomato sauce, evenly distributing over the ricotta.
*Top with 2 cups of the mozzarella, then with 1 cup of the parmesan cream sauce.
*Repeat the layering two more times, ending with a layer of noodles topped with tomato sauce and mozzarella.
*Cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes.
*Remove the foil and continue to bake until bubbling and cooked through, 10 to 20 minutes more. Cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.
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