In season: delicata squash

Many markets offer chef demos on an occasional or regular basis. Check your market’s website or Facebook page for more information.

FOR SALE

Just coming into season: green onions

Vegetables: apples, arugula, Asian greens, Asian pears, beets, carrots, chanterelles, chard, chestnuts, cucumbers, eggplant, field peas, garlic, ginger, green beans and pole beans, grits, herbs, kale, leeks, lettuce, muscadines, mushrooms, Napa cabbage, okra, pecans, peppers, popcorn, potatoes, radishes, roselle, spaghetti squash, summer squash, sweet potatoes, sweet potato greens, tomatoes, turmeric, turnips, winter squash

— From local reports

Cooler weather means farmers market customers are more inclined to pick up a winter squash. But which to choose?

“I love all winter squash, and delicata is one of my favorites for its great nutty flavor.”

That’s a pretty strong recommendation from Caitlyn Payne of Cedar Grove Farm in Stephens where they grow at least six varieties of winter squash: delicata, butternut, spaghetti squash, North Georgia Candy Roaster, acorn squash and kabocha.

Delicata squash are smaller than most other winter squash with each fruit ranging from a quarter to three-quarters of a pound. They look a little like an oblong melon with their distinctive yellow skins with a slight ribbing and a green stripe down each rib. The farmer knows they’re ready to harvest when the skin turns from shiny to dull and the stem begins to dry up.

The good news for cooks is that delicata squash can be eaten peel and all. And because they’re smaller with thinner flesh, they cook quickly.

Cedar Grove Farm is the creation of Payne’s in-laws, Jay and Marlene Payne. The senior Paynes bought 100 acres in Oglethorpe County in 2005 where they have 5 acres in field production. They grow a wide variety of produce and sell at Atlanta’s Saturday morning Freedom Farmers Market, at the Athens Farmers Market and to local restaurants.

Delicata squash planted in May began producing fruit for harvest in August.

“Once we pick the squash, we put it right into 55 degree storage. It will keep there for at least two months, and it can last longer.” So it doesn’t keep as long as more hard-shelled squash such as butternut or hubbard, but that’s still enough time for a cook to come up with half a dozen ways to use it.

Payne’s favorite is one of the easiest: Cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, roast it and then eat it from the shell with olive oil, salt and pepper. Winter squash also doesn’t have to be cooked, and Payne recently purchased a spiralizer which makes for easy, pretty servings of the raw squash in a salad or as the base for slaw.

Socca Pizza with Delicata Squash, Goat Cheese and Arugula

Chickpea flour, also called gram flour, is available at Indian groceries, at the Buford Highway Farmers Market and at natural food stores carrying products for gluten-free baking.

“Socca” is a Mediterranean pancake traditionally baked in a cast iron skillet. It’s also known as farinata and makes a gluten-free base for many different toppings. It bakes into a tender pancake-like base for a “pizza” and is adaptable for any vegetable topping you like.

1 cup chickpea flour

1 cup water

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

3 garlic cloves, minced, divided

Salt and pepper

1 1/2 pounds delicata squash, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, cut into 1/4-inch half moons

1/2 cup goat cheese

2 cups arugula

2 teaspoons lemon juice

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, water, two tablespoons olive oil, two minced garlic cloves and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Let sit at room temperature for one hour.

While flour is soaking, heat one tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add squash and saute until squash rounds begin to brown. Do not crowd pan. Cook in batches if necessary. Turn squash to evenly brown both sides. When cooking last of the squash, add remaining minced garlic clove and cook until squash has softened. Remove from heat and season to taste. Set aside.

When socca has soaked, turn on broiler. Arrange an oven rack 6 inches below broiler. Put a 10-inch cast iron skillet in oven to preheat. Once skillet is hot, remove from oven and swirl one tablespoon olive oil in bottom. Pour in chickpea flour batter and put under the broiler for 5 minutes or until socca has set and edges are browning. Remove from oven and turn oven to 425 degrees.

Top socca with goat cheese and arrange squash on top. Return to oven for 5 minutes or until everything is heated through. While pizza is heating, toss arugula with lemon juice and remaining two tablespoons olive oil. Season to taste.

Remove pizza from oven and top with dressed arugula. Serve immediately. Serves: 6

— Adapted from a recipe in the magazine “Athens Farmers Market Presents Crop Stories,” Andre Gallant, editor ($9.99).

Per serving: 225 calories (percent of calories from fat, 61), 8 grams protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 16 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 10 milligrams cholesterol, 47 milligrams sodium.