When the British food and travel writer John Gregory-Smith arrived in Beirut almost a decade ago for research, he heeded the locals’ safety warnings and avoided venturing outside the city. Instead, he roamed the neighborhood souks (markets), and cooked in a restaurant alongside women who shared their specialties from different regions of the war-torn country. Those experiences inspired several cookbooks and numerous articles on Middle Eastern cuisine.
A few years later he returned to find — much to his delight — conditions deemed safe enough for him to explore the entire country more freely. “Saffron in the Souks: Vibrant Recipes from the Heart of Lebanon” invites us along on his journey through mountains, seaside villages, and ancient cities for glimpses — and tastes — of a place whose beauty and food have long been overshadowed by bloodshed.
Before embarking, he distills the complicated history down to a brief synopsis so we can appreciate the diverse cultures — Muslims, Christians, Druze, Armenians, Syrians, Palestinians — that define Lebanese cuisine today.
Nearly every recipe comes with a story of the person who taught him to make it. Dima’s Bulgur Salad, shared by a Syrian chef friend, blends cracked wheat, walnuts “ bashed into a fine rubble,” lemon juice, scallions, mint, and creamy labna, easily made by straining full-fat yogurt in muslin overnight. I served it as part of an invigorating summer feast that also included Garlic Chicken Wings with Cilantro and Pistachio Pesto, and a salad of Purslane (I subbed arugula), Pomegranate, and Roasted Zucchinis.
All were rustic and delicious and, like the other recipes, unintimidating, requiring only basic tools and mostly easy-to-find ingredients. Only a few might send you on a search beyond the standard grocery aisles for the likes of rosewater, pomegranate molasses or the blend of sesame seeds and spices known as za’atar.
Mesmerizing photos of mountain vistas, ancient architecture, craggy-faced villagers, and tantalizing prepared dishes draw us more deeply into a world we may only experience within the confines of our own kitchens.
Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Follow her at susanpuckett.com.
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