We had a crazy idea. What if Atlanta chef Tyler Williams went to someone’s house, rummaged though the pantry and refrigerator, then made a meal with whatever he could find?
As our “victim,” we chose Renee Brock, an Atlanta photographer and frequent contributor to the AJC Food section.
Brock and Williams had never met. I had never been to Brock’s house. None of us knew what to expect.
Honestly, though, with the current wave of reality and cooking TV shows in mind, I was hoping to challenge Williams, and maybe embarrass Brock, just a little bit.
I’m sorry to report, none of that worked.
As it turned out, Williams, who was immersed in local and seasonal cooking at Bacchanalia and turns as executive chef at Abattoir and Woodfire Grill, proved every bit as clever in a home kitchen as he is in a fine dining restaurant.
Worse, Brock regularly stocks up on staples at DeKalb Farmers Market, and shops for local produce at the weekly East Atlanta Farmers Market.
“I expected sparse cabinets, processed foods, and a hodgepodge of withering produce and random leftovers,” Williams said, seeming a little sad. “What I found was an encouraging array of varied seasonal produce. The produce was supplemented with dry and canned goods legumes, grains, spices, and fine prepared items. This is exactly how I shop. I was hoping for a challenge but I was encouraged by the trend.”
Still, among the bounty, Williams discovered a few rotten apples, dangerously out-of-date sausages, and some open containers of questionable quality. Ultimately, Brock’s small kitchen, with limited counter space, an electric range and wonky oven, proved to be the biggest test.
But in short order, Williams managed to come up with impromptu recipes to make four elegant vegetarian dishes, including lentil salad, coconut acorn squash soup, farmers market hash, and poached pears and apples with ricotta.
“Building a dish by compiling the attributes each ingredient holds within it creates a rounded, healthy, and interesting dish,” Williams said. “Let the ingredients speak to you. That’s how I use the farmers markets. Great produce has great attributes. Let them shine for what they are.”
Recipes
These recipes from chef Tyler Williams were made up on the spot from ingredients found in the pantry and refrigerator of photographer Renee Brock. Get creative and make your own substitutions with whatever you have on hand.
Lentil Salad
Lentils and whatever fresh vegetables you have make for a quick and healthy salad, simply tossed with lemon juice and olive oil.
Kosher salt
1/2 cup split lentils, rinsed (any type you like)
1/4 cup sliced green beans
1/4 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1 shallot, sliced thinly and rinsed in cold water
1 bunch arugula
1 radish, sliced thinly
1 hakurei or other small turnip, sliced thinly
1 lemon, juiced
2 tablespoons olive oil
salt to taste
In a small sauce pot, boil water with enough kosher salt to taste like the ocean. Add lentils and cook until tender about 7-8 minutes. Strain lentils, rinse with cold water, and reserve.
In the same sauce pot, bring fresh salted water to a boil. Add green beans and cook for 1 minute. Remove green beans and place in ice water to cool.
Mix lentils, vegetables, lemon juice, and olive oil together in a large bowl and season with salt to taste. Serve immediately.
Serves: 4-6
Per serving: 113 calories (percent of calories from fat, 38), 5 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 5 grams fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 36 milligrams sodium.
Farmers Market Hash
For those times when you wind up buying too much at the farmers market, this veggie hash is a way to make something tasty out of everything. Use whatever you have and omit the steps that don’t apply.
Hash:
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 sweet potato, diced, blanched
1 potato, diced, blanched
1 onion, diced
salt and pepper, to taste
Mushrooms:
1/2 cup Pink Oyster mushrooms, or other mushrooms, stems removed
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste
Beets and peaches:
1 golden beet, washed
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon water
2 sprigs thyme
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 tablespoon pickled peaches, sliced
1 tablespoon pickled peach liquid
Charred Vegetables:
6 okra, split lengthwise
6 hakurei turnips, split lengthwise
6 baby carrots, split lengthwise
1 cup hakurei turnip greens, washed, thick stems removed
In a medium saute pan heat olive oil over medium high heat. Add onion and cook for 2 minutes. Add blanched potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cook 3-4 minutes or until crusty and golden brown. Reserve.
In a medium saute pan heat olive oil over medium high heat and add mushrooms. Cook 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper and continue to cook an additional 2 minutes until golden brown. Reserve.
Place beet, olive oil, thyme, water, salt and garlic into a small casserole dish and cover with aluminum foil. Bake at 350° for 30-40 minutes until tender. Remove foil and let cool slightly at room temperature. Using a towel, rub off outer skin of beet. Dice peeled beet and place in a small bowl with sliced peaches and pickling liquid. Reserve.
Heat cast iron pan over high heat. Toss okra, turnips and carrots in olive oil and season with salt. Char vegetables cut side down for 1 minute. Flip, add greens (if you are using) and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning with salt.
To assemble, mix all components together and garnish with something fresh, such as tender arugula leaves. Serve immediately.
Serves: 4-6
Per serving: 198 calories (percent of calories from fat, 29), 4 grams protein, 36 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams fiber, 6 grams fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 448 milligrams sodium.
Coconut Acorn Squash Soup
This fall squash recipe that uses what’s lingering in the pantry, such as coconut milk and other exotic goodies. Substitute vegetable oil for coconut oil, water for coconut water and cane sugar for palm sugar and add the spices you like.
1 acorn squash, split in half, seeds removed and reserved
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic
2 hot chilies, such as serrano, jalapeno, stems removed
1 apple, cored, chopped
2 tablespoons coconut oil, divided
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
1 teaspoon cumin seed, whole or ground
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon turmeric
12 ounces coconut milk
6 ounces coconut water
2 limes, juiced, plus the zest of l lime
1 tablespoon unrefined palm sugar
1 tablespoon butter, optional
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
Seeds:
4 tablespoons reserved squash seeds
1 teaspoon unrefined palm sugar
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 teaspoons curry powder
1/2 teaspoon coconut oil
Garnish:
4 tablespoons toasted squash seeds
1 radish, shaved
1 apple, shaved
1 bunch cilantro leaves
Heat oven to 350. Toss the acorn squash halves in 1 tablespoon of the coconut oil and season with salt. Place cut side down on a small baking pan. Roast in oven for 20-30 minutes or until soft. Remove to room temperature.
In a medium saucepan over medium high heat, add I tablespoon coconut oil. Add onion, apple, garlic, chiles and spices. Saute 2-3 minutes. Add coconut milk, coconut water, lime juice and zest. Simmer 10-12 minutes until reduced by 1/3.
Scoop out acorn squash flesh, and discard tough outer skin. Puree coconut mixture and squash together using a blender, or a hand stick, until smooth. Add butter if using. Season to taste with Kosher salt.
For the squash seeds:
Rinse the seeds to remove all squash pulp. Pat dry. Toss seeds, sugar, salt and oil together until evenly coated. Bake at 350° until golden brown about 3-5 minutes.
Pour 3-5 ounces of warmed soup into a bowl and garnish with seeds, apples, cilantro and radishes.
Serves 4-6.
Per serving: 310 calories (percent of calories from fat, 61), 6 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 23 grams fat (16 grams saturated), 5 milligrams cholesterol, 1,341 milligrams sodium.
Poached Pears and Apples With Ricotta
Fall fruit, apple cider, pantry spices, honey, granola, leftover ricotta cheese and a splash of bourbon become dessert.
1 pear, split in half, core removed
1 apple, split in half, core removed
1 cup apple cider
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
3 cardamom pods
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
1/4 cup honey
1 pinch Kosher salt
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon bourbon or more to taste
3/4 cup ricotta
1/4 cup granola
4 figs, split
8 muscadine or other grapes, split and seeds removed
In a medium saucepan, bring cider, vinegar, cardamom, ginger and honey to a boil over high heat. Skim off any film with a ladle or spoon. Add the apple and pear then reduce heat to medium low and simmer 8-10 minutes until tender. Once tender, remove the apple and pear and reserve. Pick out the cardamom pods and discard. Increase the cider mixture to high heat and add butter. Reduce mixture until it reaches a thick sauce consistency. Remove from heat and stir in bourbon to taste.
To finish:
In a small buttered casserole dish, place the apple and pear. Pour over cider reduction, top with ricotta mixture and sprinkle with granola. Scatter figs and grapes around. Bake at 450 for 5 minutes and serve immediately.
Serves 4-6
Per serving: 203 calories (percent of calories from fat, 30), 3 grams protein, 34 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 7 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 48 milligrams cholesterol, 61 milligrams sodium.
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