CSA is an acronym bandied about freely by some, yet unfamiliar to others.
Participants in a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program own a portion of a farmer’s garden. They pay to support the farm throughout the growing season through memberships or subscriptions and receive a weekly share of the farm’s bounty in return.
Mitch Lawson, owner of Rise ‘N Shine Organic Farm near Rome in northwest Georgia, likens it to having your own garden without the work.
Weekly deliveries include whatever is ripe. CSA boxes, costing $25 to $30, may contain familiar items like broccoli, carrots and strawberries, or seemingly mysterious ones like garlic scapes, prickly pear and bok choy.
In addition to receiving local, seasonal food, CSA members know precisely where their food was grown and the farming practices used. Chef Kevin Gillespie, “Top Chef” finalist and owner of the recently opened Gunshow restaurant, encourages folks to join such programs because “CSA members get priority and get the farm’s best, freshest produce.”
Benefits of joining a CSA program extend not only to consumers but also to farmers. Initial investments required of members enable farmers to plan crop yields and spend their time during the growing season in the fields rather than marketing and selling.
But a CSA membership isn’t without risk. Lawson emphasizes, “People who sign up need to understand that, as with any investment, there is a risk.” Crop failure is a real possibility and as a partial “owner” of a garden’s productivity, members also own any loss. So CSA deliveries may include less produce on certain weeks or even stop temporarily
Yet, according to Lawson, in the past eight years of his farm’s CSA program, his subscribers have typically received 2 to 3 percent more produce than retail value, and 10 to 15 percent more last year.
Who should join a CSA?
“A CSA isn’t for everyone,” Lawson readily admits. If you travel often or rarely cook at home, a weekly box of produce may meet its end in your refrigerator.
Chef Gillespie says the programs are best for “people willing to make a commitment.” For people who cook only once a week, a weekend visit to a local farmers market might be a better choice. “It’s the difference between having kids,” he muses, “and watching your sister’s kids for a while.”
Lawson says subscribers “have to have a broad palate and like to try different things. If you’re picky or busy, it might not be for you.”
How to shop for a CSA
Although many CSA programs started in the spring, it isn’t too late to join one at a pro-rated price. Most have growing seasons that extend through late fall.
How do you find a program that’s a good match? Here are the questions to ask and items to consider.
- What are the pick-up location and times? Most farms offer multiple pick-up locations throughout the metro area.
- How often do I want to receive a box and what can I spend? Some programs offer half shares, or biweekly delivery. Most offer 5-10 varieties of fruits and vegetables for $25-$30 per box.
- What are the payment options? While some accept monthly installments, many require the balance for the season up front.
- What is grown on the farm? Some farms may grow mostly vegetables and include few fruits in the mix. Some CSA programs also offer eggs, meat, cheese and dairy options.
- What farming practices are used? Many CSA programs offer either certified organic or certified naturally grown produce. Consider visiting the farm to learn more.
- What kind of support is offered to members? If you're a newcomer to a CSA program or feel intimidated by the prospect, look for a farm that either has a Facebook page or sends a newsletter with recipes and photos to identify that peculiar leafy green in your stash.
See below for a list of CSA programs delivering to the metro area and for other resources to help you get started, including a sample mid-June box with menu ideas from Chef Kevin Gillespie.
CSA programs
Rise ‘N Shine Organic Farm
This certified organic farm, located just 15 minutes north of Rome, GA, grows more than 40 types of vegetables and fruit. It offers both full and half share options to CSA members. Look for a weekly newsletter and recipe ideas to come on delivery days. Delivery locations include Roswell, Marietta, Kennesaw, Decatur, Buckhead and Inman Park. The farm also offers egg shares and partners with other farms to offer meat and cheese add-ons. 706-676-0825, www.risenshineorganicfarm.com
Back River Farm
This certified Naturally Grown farm has offered a CSA program since 2010. Produce shares can be picked up from the Loganville farm on Tuesdays or Thursdays. Back River Farm sells both whole and half shares on a month-to-month basis, enabling customer to try the service with minimum commitment. 770-842-5642, www.backriverfarmga.net
Phoenix Gardens
Phoenix Gardens, located in Lawrenceville, is a Certified Naturally Grown farm and grows many heirloom varieties of produce not found in stores. The farm also raises laying hens and pastured poultry. During the main growing season, Phoenix Gardens delivers CSA shares to Norcross and Brookhaven and also offers on-farm pick up. 770-513-1166, www.phoenixgardens.net
Riverview Farms
This certified organic farm on 200 acres is in northwest Georgia. In addition to tending its crops, the farm raises Berkshire pork and grass-fed beef. It offers a seasonal produce CSA and a year-round meat CSA. Delivery locations include Marietta, Acworth, Decatur, Norcross, Tucker, Grant Park, and Virginia Highland. 678-910-2831, www.grassfedcow.com
Serenbe Farms
Located in the Serenbe community in rural south Fulton County, this certified organic farm offers (but doesn't require) CSA members the option to pick their own share from the fields. Serenbe Farms hosts two CSA potluck events each year and encourages members to visit the farm. The CSA program no longer has shares available for the intown delivery site, but is still accepting members who can pick up from the farm in Chattahoochee Hills. 678-764-8273, www.serenbefarms.com
Carlton Farms
The service offered by Carlton Farms is a modified CSA program, more of a vegetable co-op. The farm partners with other local farms to assemble weekly boxes with fruits and vegetables. Members sign up to join the spring, summer and/or fall season. Other items like raw milk for pet consumption, local honey, meats, eggs and grains can be added to orders. Delivery locations include Buford, Cumming, Dunwoody, Alpharetta, Woodstock, Marietta, Decatur, East Atlanta Village and Stone Mountain. 770-655-1503, www.carltonfarms.internet-farmer.com
Moore Farms and Friends
True to its name, Moore Farms and Friends is another modified CSA program, a collective of small family farmers. Customer choice is another unique feature of this program. After paying the $30 annual membership fee, subscribers choose to either accept a "farmer pick" box in one of two sizes or to add items a la carte to meet a minimum $20 expenditure. The farm promises to rarely include "controversial vegetables" like eggplant, okra and collards in preset boxes. Items like eggs, flowers, salsa, jams, and soaps can also be added to boxes. Delivery locations include Norcross, Sandy Springs, Westside, Marietta, East Cobb, Buckhead, Midtown, Smyrna, Brookhaven, Decatur, Candler Park, East Atlanta Village and more. 256-449-9417, www.moorefarmsandfriends.com
Resources
If you are concerned about how to use the produce you’ll receive, these cookbooks will serve you well.
"The New Southern Garden Cookbook: Enjoying the Best from Homegrown Gardens, Farmers' Markets, Roadstands, & CSA Farm Boxes" by Sheri Castle (The University of North Carolina Press, $35) Food writer and professional cooking instructor Sheri Castle says she wrote this book to help people to "respond to what they have." The recipes in the book are organized by ingredient so you can find recipes tailored to your weekly vegetable haul. Castle says one of her largest recipe sections is devoted to the cooking of greens, which can be intimidating for home cooks.
"Fire in my Belly" by Kevin Gillespie with David Joachim (Andrews McMeel Publishing, $40) Known for his reliance on local, seasonal foods, Kevin Gillespie highlights them in his new cookbook. One chapter is devoted entirely to "foods you thought you hated," which teaches readers to cook items like beets, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and asparagus.
"The Silver Spoon" (Phaidon Press, $49.95) This book is another resource for CSA newcomers as suggested by Gillespie. The thick tome features Italian recipes, subdivided by ingredient. If you happen to get eggplant in your CSA box, "The Silver Spoon" will offer up 15 ideas for how to prepare it Italian-style.
"1080 Recipes" by Simone Ortega and Ines Ortega (Phaidon Press, $49.95) This Spanish-themed cookbook follows a similar format to its sister book, "The Silver Spoon." Multiple recipes appear for each ingredient, making it a perfect resource for unfamiliar produce appearing in your share.
Sample box and recipe ideas
Rise ‘N Shine Organic Farm provided us with a typical box for this time of year as we transition from spring to summer crops. It might include:
- 1 Pint of Strawberries
- 2 lbs of Beets
- 2 lbs of Squash and Zucchini
- 1 lb of Onions
- Cabbage
- Cilantro
- Pink Beauty Radishes
- 1.5 lbs of Slicer Tomatoes
Chef Kevin Gillespie suggests using the cabbage, onions and tomatoes in his One-Pot Hog Supper.
One-Pot Hog Supper
by Kevin Gillespie
from “Fire in my Belly” (Andrews McMeel Publishing, $40)
Ingredients:
- 4 tennis-ball size white potatoes, about 12 ounces
- 3 cloves garlic, peeled
- 1 softball-size onion, peeled
- 1 head green cabbage, about 2 1/2 pounds
- 6 ounces fatback, rinsed and sliced into 1/8-inch-wide strips
- 4 baseball size heirloom beefsteak tomatoes, cored and sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
- salt
- ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup celery leaves, coarsely chopped and loosely packed
- 1/4 cup chives, coarsely chopped and loosely packed
- 1/4 cup fresh French tarragon, coarsely chopped and loosely packed
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon finishing-quality olive oil
Method:
- Using a mandoline, slice the potatoes and garlic into rounds and slice the onions into lengthwise strips — all about 1/8-inch thick.
- Remove the tough, dark green outer leaves from the cabbage (save them for another use, like cabbage dumplings). Peel the inner leaves from the core and tear them into 3-inch-wide strips.
- Heat a 4-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the fatback in a single layer and cook until lightly browned, about 9 minutes; turn each piece and cook until lightly browned, an additional 2 minutes. Line a plate with paper towels and, using a slotted spoon, fish out the fatback cracklings to drain on the paper towels. Leave about 1 tablespoon of fat in the bottom of the pan, setting aside the rest.
- In this order, layer the potatoes, garlic, cabbage and tomatoes in the Dutch oven, aggressively seasoning each layer with salt and pepper as you go. Pour 1 cup of water and 3 tablespoons of the reserved fat over the top of the tomatoes. Crank the heat up to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cut the heat down to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes. To test for doneness, take off the lid and slide a knife into the pot. The knife should easily slide through the vegetables. If it doesn't, put on the lid and continue cooking until it does. Once the vegetables are tender, take off the lid and cook uncovered until the liquid reduces in volume and sits well below the top of the vegetables, about 30 minutes more.
- Pull the pot from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.
- Finely chop 2 tablespoons of the fatback cracklings and toss in a small bowl with the celery leaves, chives, parsley, and tarragon. Drizzle with the lemon juice and finishing oil and season with a grind of black pepper. Toss to combine.
- Serve a generous portion of vegetables making sure you get a little of everything in each serving, then top with the crackling herb salad.
Serves 4
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