SOUTHBOUND
5394 Peachtree Road, Chamblee. 678-580-5579, www.baconsnobs.com.
[2 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to its neighborhood and the food is consistent. $$-$$$
Overall rating: 2 of 5 stars
Food: American with Southern leanings
Service: professional, but appropriately relaxed
Best dishes: rabbit and dumplings, buttermilk lemon chess pie
Vegetarian selections: salads, sandwich, veggie plate
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Price range: $$-$$$
Credit cards: all major credit cards
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays
Children: fine
Parking: yes
Reservations: yes
Wheelchair access: yes
Smoking: no
Noise level: moderate
Patio: yes plus a lovely upstairs balcony
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 5394 Peachtree Road, Chamblee. 678-580-5579
Website: www.baconsnobs.com
Transformed into a local gem over a 25-month restoration period, this former mercantile-turned-Masonic lodge is now rustic, fresh and stunning. It gleams with brick, dark woods and reclaimed accoutrements, all in alignment with the character of the antique structure.
As captivating as this decor is, it promises a level of execution that the kitchen doesn’t yet deliver. That’s not to say you won’t enjoy some of the regionally accented fare. Consider a stewy, rib-sticking dish of rabbit and dumplings or boiled peanuts in pork broth. Fancy fried green tomatoes arrive dressed in a light cornmeal-rice flour batter and adorned with creamy chevre and a tropical pineapple-habanero jam.
Also of note: the intriguing wine list that features the likes of a fine $42 Aligote.
But you may also notice missteps along the way — dishes with a jumble of ingredients and muddled flavors that could be remedied with a little tinkering. If the kitchen could just provide a bold and unique statement, we could have a showpiece on our hands.
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