Fred's Meat & Bread, Krog Street, Atlanta

99 Krog St., Atlanta, 30307. 404-688-3733

Ever since he ran the kitchen at Bocado on the westside, Todd Ginsberg has shown himself to be a sandwich savant, someone who can mix bread and fillings in a way that feels good to hold and even better to bury your face in.

So, yay for Fred’s Meat & Bread, where his auteur flag can fly. At this Krog Street Market stall, you choose from nearly a dozen sandwiches and thick-cut fries with various seasonings at the counter. If you’re lucky, you can snag one of the stools lining the counter.

The cheesesteak, impossibly juicy and swimming in a slurry of fat and cheese, piles with impunity into a split roll. I enjoyed the garlicky bite of a porchetta sandwich — thin slices of warm roast pork piled with salsa verde and crunchy cracklins — but felt it needed a better vehicle than its spongy ciabatta roll.

Yet nothing could improve on the double-stack burger, all steamy and knobby. It is just so meaty/juicy in all the right ways and cheesy/goopy in all the right ways that, for several minutes, I couldn’t be disturbed with anything else in the world.

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