CHICK-A-BIDDY

264 19th St. N.W., Atlanta. 404-588-1888, www.chickabiddyatl.com. $$

2 of 5 stars [a good addition to its neighborhood, and the food is consistent]

Chef Shaun Doty believes “you can judge a chef by his personal refrigerator.” Many talk a good game, but if you get a peek in the fridge, “you’ll know what’s really going on between his ears.”

I can’t tell you what’s in Doty’s refrigerator, but I can tell you what’s in the one at Chick-a-Biddy, his newest spot at Atlantic Station: chicken — much of it from White Oak Pastures. You’ll also find White Oak Pastures beef and Patak’s bacon and sausage.

You can satisfy indulgent cravings here with a double-stacked hamburger or a blackened, pasture-raised ground chicken burger. But you might skip the wan fried chicken. Besides, healthier dishes shine. Try the roasted chicken, the paper-thin vertical slices of plantains served with a peppy guacamole, and the Sardinian flatbread loaded to the rims with grill-marked veggies, sunflower sprouts and a swipe of house-made hummus.

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