TIMONE’S

1409 N. Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. www.timonespizzaatlanta.com. $$-$$$

1 of 5 stars [a worthy addition to its neighborhood, but the food is hit and miss]

Chef Ron Eyester established himself in the Morningside neighborhood with Rosebud in 2008 and the Family Dog three years later. Now he has embarked on a third project, Timone’s, a pizza house that he admitted has been ā€œa challenging project.ā€

Eyester said his new pizza joint is New York inspired, but he was careful to avoid calling it ā€œauthentic.ā€ Indeed, you’ll find oversized maps of that city lacquered on the tabletops, themed posters and weathered pressed-tin tiles lining the comfortable space. What you won’t find at Timone’s is a perfected pie, authentic or otherwise.

Pizza serves as this restaurant’s calling card, but whatever your preferred style, this one likely will rouse your ire. Timone’s is still a work in progress and won’t yet be the place to savor the therapeutic goodness of a well-made slice.

Instead, it can be your spot for ā€œmarinara Italianā€ — a restaurant serving many comforting, traditional red sauce-based dishes. Don’t miss the sausage and peppers, with long slices of seared sweet Italian sausage layered with soft braised peppers in a spicy San Marzano tomato sauce.

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