Sperata on the Square

Like its kissin’ cousin in Buford, Sperata on the Square in Lawrenceville is blessed with the charming setting of a small Southern town. But don’t think these places are anything like a Mayberry diner. In fact, they’re much more a remnant of the kind of fine dining that used to be called “Continental.”

During a recent midday visit, Sperata on the Square was doing a good business, serving salads, sandwiches and entrees to local business people and small groups of lunching ladies. The dining room, situated in a historic brick building, is roomy and bright, with comfy booths and plenty of tables near the tall windows. There’s a pleasant brick patio with umbrella tables. And a well-appointed bar, with a separate entrance, offers live music Tuesdays through Saturdays.

Leisurely lunch value

Sperata makes an inviting destination for a leisurely lunch. Service is professional and attentive. And there’s a decent selection of wines by the glass. But best of all, the portions are generous and the sandwiches and entrees are a good value, with most falling in the $9-$12 range.

Appetizers are an even better deal. For $5, the kitchen’s take on fried green tomatoes is a small wonder of vegetal excess. A stack of tangy, crispy-fried tomato slices is layered with pesto and topped with a breaded and fried goat cheese ball and black olive tapenade. All this is served on a plate swirled with marinara sauce and creamy-spicy dressing. Other starters range from calamari or mussels marinara to escargot in puff pastry.

Which came first?

Sandwiches, served with a choice of fries, coleslaw or salad, include a burger with bacon, Swiss cheese and caramelized onions, and a warm brie wrap with portobello mushrooms and peppers. Chicken Club Picasso ($9) is a messy but surprisingly delicious chicken and egg creation, with a meaty grilled chicken breast crammed into a soft roll along with a fried egg, a whole bunch of smoky bacon and gooey blue cheese sauce.

Among the other lunch entree offerings, pan-fried pecan-crusted trout ($12) is a huge filet atop a pile of rice and asparagus. Tilapia shows up fried in fish and chips and grilled with Cajun spices. There’s also a crab cake, chicken Parmesan, shrimp and crab carbonara, and grilled scallops.

Dinner on the square

The dinner menu (available at lunch, as well) features a few overlaps from the lunch menu, including fried green tomatoes (under another name) and a giant-size grilled Scottish salmon filet with a Dijon mustard, dill and caper cream sauce. Dinner entree prices start at $15 for butternut squash ravioli and climb to $21 for a steakhouse-style ribeye or filet. But Mondays through Thursdays, look for the $24.95 chef’s three-course “economy stimulus menu” or the $3 tapas at the bar. For dessert, there are classics, such as sticky toffee pudding, vanilla crème brûlée and cheesecake.

Dining out

Sperata on the Square, 179 W. Crogan St., 770-910-7705

Signature dish: Fish dishes

Entree prices: $11-$14 (lunch); $15-$21 (dinner)

Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays.

Reservations: Yes

Credit cards: Yes