TIN ROOF KITCHEN

52B N. Main St., Alpharetta. www.tinroofkitchen.com.

[1 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but the food is hit and miss. $$-$$$

Alpharetta’s new Tin Roof Kitchen, located just off Main Street, has a lot going for it. It’s one of the very few restaurants that have committed to running an entirely gluten-free operation, making it a place where those who suffer from celiac disease don’t have to fret about cross contamination.

Tin Roof offers diners avoiding these pesky proteins a chance to eat favored foods like buttermilk fried chicken and French toast — foods for which they’ve likely longed and are grateful to have available. Yet, major service gaffes here don’t entice hard-won customers to return. The kitchen here may or may not be able to compensate for the service. It depends on the dish, the cook and the day.

Your best bets here include the mac and cheese noodles swaddled in a thick, burnt-sienna-colored blanket of crusty cheese glistening with white truffle oil. Or, try the Muenster-coated burger on an actual bun (no lettuce wrap!). Finish with the dark and fudge-y chocolate cake with chocolate buttercream.