Gil Kulers: New Year’s Eve bubbly from Alsace

I’ve been lucky enough to have spent a fair amount of time in Alsace -- one of the absolutely most gorgeous places in the world with unparalleled food and wine quality. I worked there, played there and nearly perished with my family on a hiking expedition in a national park there (a story I’ll save for another time). If the Family Kulers ever considered pulling up roots, we’d easily replant in Alsace.

One of the many things that put a wistful curl in my smile when I think of Alsace is the sparkling wine of the region. You’d be hard-pressed to enter an Alsatian household anytime after, say, 11 a.m. without being handed a glass of crémant. Crémant is Alsatian for “glad to see you!”

Before getting into what crémant is, let’s consider what it is not. It is not Champagne, and not because Champagne can only come from the Champagne region of France. Alsatian winemakers are allowed to use chardonnay and pinot noir grapes (key components in Champagne) for crémant, but they are more likely to use the somewhat pedestrian pinot blanc. This gives crémant a lighter, easily approachable style, more appropriate for a quick clink and a quaff.

Crémant is not expensive. The most expensive crémant will set you back no more than $30 to $35. Most are under $20.

Crémant d’Alsace is not what you would call a food wine. Sure, it goes great with the wonderful charcuterie and rich onion tarts of the region, but I think Crémant d’Alsace is pretty good all by itself, what some folks would call a cocktail wine.

Sparkling wines -- also called crémants -- are made in other regions of France (Burgundy and the Loire Valley come to mind), but not a whole lot is made. Outside of Champagne, nobody makes more dry sparkling wine than Alsace. About one out of every five bottles of wine coming out of Alsace is filled with bubbles, about 30 million bottles annually. This means you should be able to find a bottle or two of Crémant d’Alsace in any decent wine shop.

Names to look for are Lucien Albrecht, Albert Mann, Jean-Baptiste Adam, Willm, Dirler and Domaine Agapé.

So what is rémant d’Alsace? To me, it reminds me of the folks who make it. They are a warm people who practically bubble over with friendliness. They are frugal, paying only for substance, with little tolerance for flash. They enjoy making things of quality, like the solid, timber-beamed houses they live in.

I think Greg would agree with me that more Americans should ring in 2011 with a taste of Alsace.

Gil Kulers is a certified wine educator with the Society of Wine Educators. You can reach him at gil.kulers@winekulers.com.

Lucien Albrecht, Blanc de Blancs, Crémant d'Alsace, France

$20

Two thumbs way up

Pleasant aromas of sourdough, tangerine, peach and lime. It has a crisp, citrusy acidity and flavors of tangerine and lime with a light nutmeg/toffee spice. Effervescent, but not overly so.

Domaine Agapé, Emotion, Crémant d'Alsace, France

$19

Two thumbs up

Aromas of banana, petrol and orange juice concentrate. Lots of minerals with a simple tart lime and toasted coconut flavor, reminiscent of key lime pie.

Note: Wines are rated on a scale ranging up from thumbs down to golden thumb award. Prices are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents, a local distributor or retailer.