Easter cooking, Big Easy style

Rochon ran the Riverside Cafe in New Orleans’ Riverwalk Marketplace for 11 years. She now lives in Atlanta but maintains her connection to her hometown’s food culture through her catering and event planning business.

New Orleans residents have food traditions for all occasions — weddings, funerals and even football. The meals served during Holy Week, the days leading up to Easter Sunday, follow their own rituals influenced by the city’s largely Catholic traditions.

Gumbo z’herbes (pronounced “zab”) is the traditional main course for Holy Thursday.

“This is the last chance to eat meat of any kind before Easter Sunday,” Rochon said.

This gumbo is traditionally made from at least five, and often many more, greens slowly simmered in a broth of chicken and beef stock flavored with ham and pork sausages.

“The core greens of mustard, collards, kale, spinach and turnips are always used,” Rochon said. Other greens such as cabbage and watercress are optional. The gumbo is seasoned with bay leaf and thyme.

Good Friday is a day of reflection and often includes fasting. Only the most necessary work is done, and the meal that breaks the fast is seafood.

Dinner for some families might be shrimp creole, but the traditional main course for the Rochons is cod fish cakes, made from soaked salt cod. Salt cod might seem like an odd choice for a city surrounded by Gulf waters and easy access to fresh seafood, but cod is an easily stored staple that adapts itself to a variety of recipes.

The cod fish cakes are served with potato salad made with celery, green onions, boiled eggs and homemade Creole-style mayonnaise prepared from boiled egg yolks rather than raw. Served with green peas or buttered green beans, that’s the meal. There is no dessert because it’s still Lent.

On the Saturday before Easter, the family matriarchs gather in the kitchen to begin preparations for Sunday’s meal. The children will also be in the kitchen, busy dyeing Easter eggs. While this work is going on, the family will enjoy oyster and artichoke soup or fried speckled trout.

“Easter usually signals the last chance to really enjoy oysters. Most New Orleanans don’t eat oysters without the month containing an R in the spelling. At the seafood market, oysters are obtained by the gallon, making sure to request extra oyster liquor, the liquid in the shell with the oyster. This is a prized ingredient for gumbo, and especially oyster dressing,” Rochon said.

Easter dinner could feature any number of dishes. Rochon rattled off just a few.

“There might be crawfish bisque, stuffed crab, smothered turtle or Court Bouillon [pronounced “coo-bee-yon”] made with redfish, or maybe a cold salad of poached redfish with marinated onions and celery, topped with homemade mayonnaise.

“Stewed rabbit might be on the table, or a veal dish called a ‘pocket,’ a thigh of veal stuffed with a dressing made of ground sirloin and oysters, garlic and seasoning, then rubbed with salt, black pepper and Creole seasoning, and cooked a bed of onions, thyme and garlic.”

A ham or a beef roast or even some quail might also be served. All these dishes are accompanied again with potato salad, green beans and peas.

No matter the entree, gumbo is always the first course. And now that Lent is over, the desserts roll out: bread pudding with whiskey sauce, with or without a meringue topping; pecan pie or pecan cake; and homemade pralines and homemade fudge to have with coffee and chicory.

In Rochon’s home, Easter dinner will be served at 3 p.m. “My father was one of nine children, and my mother was one of 11. Easter could be anywhere from a dozen to three dozen people at the table.

“When people arrive for Easter Sunday, there will be an area set up for drinks, a glass of punch or lemonade or wine, and something to nosh on — hogshead cheese with crackers, deviled eggs, a hot crab dip or boiled shrimp,” she said.

With all that bounty, it’s no surprise when Rochon says that no one in New Orleans eats a meal in under an hour, especially when it’s a holiday.

And if you’re from New Orleans, you’re likely to judge people by how quickly they eat. “Someone will say, ‘They can’t possibly be from here, they got up in an hour,’” she said with a laugh.

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Recipes

These classic New Orleans dishes have several seasonings in common: Bay leaves, thyme, green onions, celery and onions. And they all feature Tony Chachere’s Creole seasoning, another New Orleans staple. This inexpensive spice mix is available at most grocery stores; New Orleans cooks swear by its authenticity.

If, in preparing the gumbo or court bouillon, you would like a thicker mixture, mix 2 tablespoons of flour or cornstarch with 1 cup of water and stir it into the simmering soup or stew. In a few minutes, the broth should thicken.

C.W. Cameron, for the AJC

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Gumbo Z’Herbes

This recipe calls for the traditional seven greens, but you can eliminate the cabbage and watercress if you wish. Be sure to clean all greens thoroughly before blanching. If you don’t have a ham bone to make your own ham stock, you can use ham base, available at most grocery stores and the DeKalb Farmers Market, as a substitute.

Hands on: 1 hour Total time: 1 hour, 30 minutes Makes: 4 quarts

1/2 pound collard greens

1/2 pound turnip greens

1/2 pound mustard greens

1/2 pound kale

1/2 pound spinach, coarsely chopped

1/4 head small green cabbage, coarsely chopped

2 cups watercress, chopped

1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 pound smoked sausage, sliced

1/4 pound andouille, sliced

1/4 pound chorizo, sliced

1/4 pound ham steak, cubed

4 green onions, sliced in 1/4-inch (one-quarter) pieces

2 medium yellow onions, diced in 1/4-inch pieces

3 ribs celery, diced in 1/4-inch pieces

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 quart chicken stock

1 pint beef stock

1 pint ham stock

1/2 cup parsley, finely chopped

2 bay leaves

4 sprigs thyme

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon Tony Chachere’s Creole seasoning

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

In a large stockpot, bring 2 quarts of water to boil, approximately 5 minutes. Submerge collard greens in water and simmer for 3 minutes. Strain out collards and put in colander. Rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Allow to drain.

Repeat with turnip greens, mustard greens and kale. When cool, coarsely chop all cooked greens, combine with spinach, cabbage and watercress and set aside.

In stockpot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add smoked sausage, andouille, chorizo and ham and heat for 3 minutes. Add green onions, onions, celery and garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add chicken stock, beef stock and ham stock, and all greens. Stir in parsley, bay leaves, thyme, black pepper and creole seasoning. Simmer 30 minutes and taste for seasoning. Add butter and serve.

Can be served over rice.

Adapted from a recipe provided by Lisa Rochon

Per 1-cup serving: 211 calories (percent of calories from fat, 71), 8 grams protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 12 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 23 milligrams cholesterol, 1,410 milligrams sodium.

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Court Bouillon

Court Bouillon is traditionally served over rice. Use a firm white-fleshed fish like redfish, amberjack, sheephead, snapper or striped bass for this dish. If you have extra fish stock, you can freeze it for up to three months.

Hands on: 30 minutes Total time: 1 hour, 30 minutes Serves: 6

3 pounds whole fish; fillets, head, skin and bones reserved

2 medium onions, quartered

4 stalks celery, quartered

4 whole cloves garlic

4 bay leaves, divided

6 sprigs thyme, divided

1/8 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 cup olive oil

4 green onions, thinly sliced

1 medium onion, diced in 1/4-inch pieces

1 rib celery, diced in 1/4-inch pieces

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 (10-ounce) can stewed or crushed tomatoes

1/2 (61/2 ounce) can tomato paste

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon Tony Chachere’s Creole seasoning

3 lemons, peeled, sliced and seeds removed

Salt to taste

1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped

3 tablespoons butter

Extra parsley for garnish

In a large saucepan, combine fish head, skin and bones with quartered onions and celery, garlic, 2 bay leaves, 3 sprigs thyme and peppercorns. Cover with 6 cups water and bring to a boil, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat and simmer until water reduces by half, about 15 minutes. Strain stock into 1-quart measuring cup and set aside.

In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add green onions, diced onion and celery and cook until vegetables become translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add flour and stir well. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, minced garlic, 2 bay leaves and 3 sprigs thyme and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in 2 cups fish stock, black pepper, cayenne pepper and Creole seasoning. Squeeze lemon slices over pot and add slices to sauce. Taste for seasoning, remembering that it should be spicy. Simmer 20 minutes.

Cut fish fillets into 3-inch pieces and add to pot along with parsley and butter. Simmer gently for 20 minutes or until fish is cooked through. Garnish with extra parsley if desired.

Adapted from a recipe provided by Lisa Rochon.

Per serving: 543 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 50 grams protein, 19 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 29 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 105 milligrams cholesterol, 501 milligrams sodium.

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Cod Fish Cakes

Cod fish cakes are traditionally made with salt cod, available in 1 pound packages at some grocery stores and the DeKalb Farmers Market. If you prefer to use fresh cod, buy 1 pound and simmer it in water with a half lemon and a half stalk of celery. Cook until fish just turns opaque, then turn off the heat and let it sit until cool.

Hands on: 30 minutes Total time: 60 minutes

Makes: 20 cakes, 2 cakes per serving

1 pound dried salted cod

3 medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut in 1-inch cubes

4 green onions, thinly sliced

2 ribs celery, 1/4-inch diced

1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons butter, room temperature

Pinch of cayenne

Salt, ground black pepper and Tony Chachere’s Creole seasoning to taste

2 large eggs, beaten

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup vegetable oil

Lemon for garnish

In a medium saucepan, cover salt cod with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat slightly and cook fish for 15 minutes. Drain, return fish to pot and cover with water again. Return to a boil, and reduce heat slightly. Cook until fish is fork tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool.

While fish is cooking, in a medium saucepan, cover potato cubes with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until potatoes are tender. Drain and use ricer or potato masher to puree potatoes into a large bowl.

In the bowl with the potatoes, add green onions, celery, parsley, garlic and butter. Season to taste with cayenne, salt, black pepper and Creole seasoning. Mix in eggs until thoroughly combined. Gently break cod into 1/2-inch pieces and fold in gently.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Put flour in a small bowl. Use a 1/4 cup measure or ice cream scoop to form balls of potato-fish mixture. Roll balls in flour and pat into a cake about 1-inch thick. Set aside on baking sheet.

In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Fry cakes until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Drain and serve while hot. Garnish with lemon wedges.

Adapted from a recipe provided by Lisa Rochon

Per serving: 333 calories (percent of calories from fat, 69), 11 grams protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 26 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 68 milligrams cholesterol, 72 milligrams sodium.