Gunshow

924 Garrett St., Atlanta. 404-380-1886, gunshowatl.com.

Atlanta seems to have nothing but questions about chef Kevin Gillespie’s new restaurant. What’s it called? Gunshow, but don’t worry. They chefs aren’t packing. Where is it? In Glenwood Park, a quaint community just south of I-20. Here’s the big question: How exactly does it work? Ah … that’s tricky.

If you’ve read anything about this first solo venture from the famous “Top Chef” finalist, you know the dining format veers from tradition. Citing dim sum parlors and Brazilian churrascarias as inspiration, Gillespie has decided to take the process of ordering out of the equation. The paper menu listing about 15 dishes serves only as a reference tool or cheat sheet. Chefs prepare several small-plate portions of each dish at a time and then personally haul them out on a wooden service tray for you to choose or refuse.

It can be a load of fun, as you take bites of pork skin risotto followed by creamed butterbeans with chicken cracklin’ cornbread. The bill does add up quickly, but the inexpensive wines (and free corkage) help defray the cost.

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