Dish of the Week: Beef Heart Tartare at the Wrecking Bar
Beef heart is one of those criminally undervalued cuts of beef, the kind that's worth a million bucks with the right touch and an open mind. Of course, most people who hear “heart” don’t feel that way. They often think of over-powering iron taste of liver or other offal, or just can’t get over eating such a organ. But, in fact, the flavor of a beef heart is clean, the texture smooth. Cut right and treated gently, it is lovely.
The beef heart tartare at Wrecking Bar is a nice gateway dish, the kind where someone who might be squeamish about eating heart can ease into the idea. Served with an egg yolk atop and a stack of toast to use for spreading, you might not notice the difference between this and another classic beef tartare. But pay close attention: you appreciate the smooth, firm texture of the hand chopped heart and the clean, beefy finish. Maybe next time, you’ll feel different about the heart.
Wrecking Bar Brewpub , 292 Moreland Avenue, Atlanta. 404-221-2600, wreckingbarbrewpub.com.
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