The eastern shore of Mobile Bay in Alabama is one of the few places in the world where jubilees occur -- a natural phenomenon when very specific weather and water conditions in summertime cause bottom-dwelling marine life to drive themselves ashore in droves in a desperate search for more oxygen-rich water.
When this rare event happens, locals ring bells, yell "Jubilee!" and head to the beach to scoop up flounder, shrimp and crabs by the bucketful in a surf that seems to boil with the flailing creatures.
It's impossible to know for sure when a jubilee will occur, but there are some key indicators that signal one may be imminent: a rising tide before sunrise when the previous day's winds were easterly, the sky overcast and the bay surface calm.
Most visitors to the "East Coast" -- as many locals refer to it -- don't get to experience a jubilee, though in summer it's always a possibility. But this part of the bay has much to offer, from historic sites and resorts to a dynamic arts community filled with good shopping and dining options.
Don't miss
Downtown Fairhope
If you like to shop in locally owned boutiques, fashionable galleries and well-stocked independent bookstores, downtown Fairhope might be your kind of place. This small, artsy town is home to many authors, including Pulitzer Prize winner Rick Bragg, who once jested that Fairhope is the kind of place where "you cannot swing a dead cat without hitting a serious-faced novelist."
Begin with a stop at the Fairhope Museum of History in the old City Hall building to get an overview of the town's quirky history (it was founded by Utopian socialist outsiders, for starters). Then head to the Fairhope French Quarter down the street to browse shops, relax in the shady courtyard and nosh on the best beignets this side of New Orleans at Panini Pete's. Your downtown stroll should also include stops at Page and Palette, a landmark business in town that sells books and art supplies, and has its own coffee shop, and Mr. Gene's Beans ice cream and dessert shop for a Fairhope Float. The Jumpin' Jubilee public art project will be on display all summer -- look for the large brightly painted and decorated crabs, flounder and shrimp placed on buildings and at other random spots throughout town.
The Grand at Point Clear
Known as "The Queen of Southern Resorts," the Grand Hotel at Point Clear south of Fairhope dates to 1847 and has been a favorite vacation destination for generations of families. Steeped in tradition, daily activities include high tea each afternoon around the multisided hearthstone fireplace in the the lobby and a ceremonial cannon shot over the bay from a replica Civil War-era cannon to honor military veterans. Modern touches include spa facilities, in-room Wi-Fi, a private beach for sunbathing and water sports, a pool area with a high, twisting water slide for the kids, and a separate adults-only pool. Service at the Grand is legendary; the lounge -- Bucky's Birdcage -- is named after a deceased longtime employee who was so beloved by returning guests that the resort erected a statue on the grounds in his honor.
The Fairhope pier
Fairhope residents refer to the pier at Municipal Park as their town square. The nearly quarter-mile-long pier serves as a gathering place for the community; the park at the foot of the pier is the site of many special events. Popular activities include fishing, sunbathing and swimming on a surprisingly wide and long strand of beach, picnicking and strolling the winding footpaths on the shady grounds, and bird-watching (bring some binoculars). The pier is a stop on the Alabama Coastal Birding Trail and home to the Purple Martin Riviera, a series of large bird condos sitting on top of tall poles just offshore where the bug-eating Purple Martin swallow stops to nest in spring and summer during its migration.
If you go
Fairhope is about a 5.5-hour drive from Atlanta via I-85 and I-65 South. Get off at Exit 31 on I-65 and head south on AL 225 and U.S. 98, then veer off on the more scenic U.S. 98 Alt., which will lead you into downtown Fairhope and Point Clear.
Stay
The Grand Hotel Marriott Resort at Point Clear. Rates start at $219, plus a 15 percent resort fee per day. The fee allows for guests to enjoy many services without paying extra, including the use of bicycles, sea kayaks, fishing equipment and a shuttle bus to downtown Fairhope. 251-928-9201, www.marriottgrand.com.
Eat
The Wash House. Fine Southern dining in a casual atmosphere with a focus on coastal cuisine. Dinner entrees start at $27. 17111 Scenic Highway 98, Point Clear. 251-928-4838, washhouserestaurant.com.
Panini Pete's. Grilled, pressed breakfast and lunch sandwiches and to-die-for beignets served out of a tiny shop next to the courtyard in the Fairhope French Quarter. Sandwiches with a side under $10. 42 1/2 S. Section St., Fairhope. 251-929-0122, www.paninipetes.com.
Visitor info
Mobile Bay Convention & Visitors Bureau. 800-566-2453, www.mobile.org.
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