Where to stay
Eagles Ridge Resort Cabin Rentals. Everything from single-bedroom cabins to multiple-bedroom mountain homes. Secluded feel, but just minutes from Pigeon Forge attractions. 2740 Florence Drive, Pigeon Forge, Tenn. 1-877-920-1927, eaglesridge.com.
Where to eat
Paula Deen's Family Kitchen. Breakfast, lunch and dinner; serves Southern comfort food. 131 Island Drive, Pigeon Forge, Tenn. 865-366-1510, pauladeensfamilykitchen.com.
Attractions
The Great Smoky Mountain Wheel. 131 Island Drive, Pigeon Forge, Tenn. 1-865-286-0119, islandinpigeonforge.com.
Wonders of Flight. 100 Music Road, Pigeon Forge, Tenn. 865-868-4951, wondersofflight.com.
Smoky Mountain Alpine Coaster. 867 Wears Valley Road, Pigeon Forge, Tenn. 865-365-5000, smokymountainalpinecoaster.com.
“That ain’t no hill for a climber.”
Growing up in Kentucky, I heard that a lot from my father, with his distinctive Southern drawl. Loosely translated, it means, “I have faith that you can meet any challenge.”
On a recent trip to the Great Smoky Mountains, the country’s most visited national park, that expression took on a much more literal meaning. Dad and I made the hike to Clingmans Dome, the highest peak, to enjoy the outlook from the 54-foot-tall observation tower, a round 1960s structure that reminds me of ominous, Earth-invading flying saucers featured in campy sci-fi movies of the era.
This was no hill; it was a mountain. But we were “climbers,” and we would prevail. A half-mile hike may sound more like a carefree stroll, but the steepness of the trail combined with the reduced oxygen at such a high altitude made for a physically demanding excursion.
Dad and I ascended at a leisurely pace, stopping occasionally to photograph the sprawling spruce-fir forest blanketed in an ephemeral, blue-gray morning fog, the “smoke” for which the mountains are named. I was hoping for a shot of one of the park’s iconic black bears, but they are shy creatures, and it was not to be.
Fauna may have been sparse, but flora was abundant. Brilliantly hued wildflowers danced in the mountain breeze, and I wished Mom were with us to identify them.
Despite her knowledge of flowers, my mother is not an outdoorsy type, and she had about as much interest in hiking as in poking a hornets nest. She was happy for us to leave her to less strenuous pursuits.
About halfway to the summit, Dad joked that the paved trail had gotten much steeper and longer than it was when we climbed it together 40-plus years ago. Back then, I was a giggling toddler perched happily on his shoulders and my younger sister lay asleep in his arms.
At last, we arrived breathlessly at the observation tower, so pleased with ourselves one would think we had just scaled Mount Everest. The tower was rimmed with hikers scanning the verdant scenery through binoculars and camera lenses, intent on locating the landmarks depicted on the surrounding signage.
Suddenly, a boy of about 4 or 5 turned to his parents and yelled triumphantly, “We are on top of the world!” — expressing that fresh sense of wonder that can only be found in the very young. I wondered if I had shown the same enthusiasm on my first trip here so many years ago.
At an elevation of 6,643 feet, Clingmans Dome affords a panoramic view that stretches more than 100 miles into seven states on a clear day. But clear days can be rare and fleeting. In addition to the natural mountain fog, increasing air pollution also can obstruct the view.
Fortunately, when Dad and I arrived, the fog was lifting. Cove Mountain was visible to the north and the Snowbird Mountains loomed to the west. I couldn’t see for 100 miles, but what I did see was breathtaking.
If you’re not a climber…
Since Mom isn’t a hiker, I had to find some other way for her to take in the picturesque mountain scenery. Fortunately, several attractions have opened in Pigeon Forge, Tenn., over the past couple of years that provide spectacular views with little or no exertion.
The 200-foot-tall Great Smoky Mountain Wheel, the centerpiece of a new entertainment and shopping development called The Island, proved to be well worth the short wait in line. An enclosed, climate-controlled gondola lifted us high above the sprawl of endless tourist attractions for a dramatic view of the national park.
Another option for those who want an effortless view is a ride in the Wonders of Flight, a tethered, 20-passenger helium balloon that soars 500 feet into the air. On a clear day, you can see 80 miles to Cumberland Gap, Ky.
It’s not just what you see; it’s what you hear, or, more to the point, don’t hear. Hovering far above the Pigeon Forge traffic, there’s a sense of peace and serenity that’s hard to find on the ground.
Surprisingly, my favorite mountain experience was the Smoky Mountain Alpine Coaster. I’m no daredevil — I’ve never liked roller coasters — but I couldn’t resist this new ride that zips down a mountain on a mile-long raised track at a speed of up to 27 mph. Little kids were riding in the toboggan-like cars, so I figured it couldn’t be too scary. Spiraling through the dense foliage and then heading into an unexpected hairpin turn was utterly exhilarating, but not terrifying.
Dad doesn’t like heights or thrill rides and couldn’t be persuaded to ride the coaster, no matter how much I raved about it. I didn’t even try with Mom.
With 150 official trails, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a hiker’s paradise, but, for those who aren’t climbers, nearby attractions in Pigeon Forge offer plenty of ways to enjoy the lookout without the workout.
