There is a bakery in Paris famous for simple things. For nearly 90 years, Maison Poilâne has enjoyed international renown for big, beautiful rustic loaves of sourdough baked in wood-fired ovens, hearty, seedy rye breads and small, deceptively simple-looking butter cookies called punitions. These small cookies are offered gratis to Poilâne’s many customers, an act that, to me, has always represented the highest expression of the generous spirit that runs in the food world. These cookies are simple tokens of neighborliness, and also happen to be quite delicious.

When I started Root Baking Co. in 2015, this homage to Poilâne’s famous punitions was the first recipe I tested. As is my way, I added a good bit of lemon zest to a very simple butter cookie. I wanted them to brighten people’s days like little suns, so the name seemed to fit. The recipe is simple, and it makes a lot of cookies, so feel free to freeze the unbaked cookies for any occasion.

Chris Wilkins has been a professional baker for 12 years. He is a two-time James Beard Award nominee and the founder and co-owner of Root Baking Co. and Pizza Jeans. Submit your baking questions to bakebetterajc@gmail.com.

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