This is easily my least-favorite column of the year: The Dreaded Thanksgiving Column. In the ghost-columns of Thanksgivings past, I’ve talked about boxed wines, used the column as a platform for cru Beaujolais and explained how to buy wines for know-it-all brothers-in-law. One year, I even offered up a calculator of how much wine to buy and what is a sensible budget.
What’s left?
Since my request to the U.S. Dept. of Holiday Standards and Practices (in which I requested a two-week delay of Thanksgiving 2015) was rejected (and with my editor frowning and pointing to her watch), I had an ingenious plan for a Thanksgiving column that didn’t involve changing my name and moving out of the country.
Let somebody else do it!
Unleashing my inner slacker, I asked the stars of the show, “Uncorked,” to tell you what wines to buy for Turkey Day. The show, which airs on Tuesdays at 10 p.m. on the Esquire Network, chronicles six sommeliers as they aspire to become the Jedi Knights of the wine world: master sommeliers.
Long-winded and overachieving as they are brilliant, they each submitted three wines with dissertations for each selection. Editor Lady has stopped pointing to her watch only long enough to give me the thumbs down signal on my idea to run all 2,000 words.
So, doing something that vaguely feels like work, I’ve pared down their recommendations to their core brilliance (if some are little difficult to find, send your complaints to them personally, care of the Esquire Network). And on a pithy side note, I’m not sure what these guys/gal would recommend if there were no French or Italian wine to choose from.
Yannick Benjamin, sommelier, The University Club and wine educator, New York, New York
2014 La Battagliola Lambrusco, Emilia Romagna, Italy ($17)
If your only experience with Lambrusco is the cheap, sweet stuff they used to sell from the bottom shelf, you’re in for a surprise. A dry-yet-fruity red wine with elegant tiny bubbles, it is a specialty of Emilia-Romagna and it is a marvelous pairing with your traditional Thanksgiving meal from your turkey leg to your cornbread. The bright red fruit compliments while the slight sparkle keeps your palate fresh.
Jane Lopes, sommelier, Eleven Madison Park, New York, New York
2014 Marcel Lapierre Morgon, Cru Beaujolais, France ($26)
Beaujolais is a classic Thanksgiving pairing. Its light body and tart fruit complement the basics: turkey and cranberry sauce.
2013 Domaine Weinbach, Reserve Personelle, Gewürztraminer, Alsace, France ($35)
This wine can transition perfectly from yams with dinner, to a smoked cheese plate, to pumpkin pie for dessert. Ever so slightly off-dry, with rich tropical fruit and spice notes, this is a versatile wine with rich autumn food.
Morgan Harris, sommelier, Aureole Restaurant, New York, New York
Roederer Estate Brut, Anderson Valley, California ($22)
Simply one of America’s great sparkling wines and a great value. It’s a big meal, so drink something refreshing to keep your stamina up.
2013 Trimbach Riesling, Alsace, France ($19)
Always made in a bone-dry style, this wine has an appealing, lean fruitiness, a layer of savory flavors and high acidity to foil all the rich dishes on the table.
Josh Nadel, beverage director, Andrew Carmellini restaurants, New York, New York
2013 Domaine Faury St. Joseph, Rhône, France ($30)
This might be my favorite red wine per dollar, worldwide, in the under $30 retail category. I drink Northern Rhône wines with almost everything. Traditionally made syrah from Côte-Rôtie and the other villages of the Northern Rhône, they are amongst my favorite red wines, bar none.
Dana Gaiser, key accounts director for Lauber Imports, Somerville, New Jersey
2014 Pietradolce Etna Rosso, Sicily, Italy ($23)
I typically serve Burgundy at home on Thanksgiving, but this is a great alternative. Red fruits, a little ashy smoke and some autumn leaf notes perfect for turkey.
Jack Mason, wine director, Marta Restaurant, New York, New York
2012 Château de Brézé, Clos David, Saumur Blanc, Loire Valley, France ($35)
This white wine, made from chenin blanc, is the perfect balance of finesse and richness. Inherently a bright varietal, this chenin is moderate-plus in body, which helps it pair well with butternut squash soup, roasted sweet potatoes and even a perfectly roasted breast of turkey.
N.V. Calabretta, Cala Cala, Rosso, Sicily, Italy ($17)
A blend of multiple vintages and two grapes, nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, this Sicilian red wine is literally named Gulp Gulp for its easy approach. Similar to a rustic style of pinot noir or gamay, this medium-bodied red sits easy on the table and can tackle the gamut of the typical Thanksgiving spread.
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