Craft beer cookbook events
"The American Craft Beer Cookbook" signings with John Holl: 2:30-4:30 p.m. Dec. 8. Sweetwater Brewery Co., 195 Ottley Drive N.E. sweetwaterbrew.com; 4-7 p.m. Dec. 9, 5 Seasons Westside,1000 Marietta St. 5seasonsbrewing.com. More info: JohnHoll.com.
In “The American Craft Beer Cookbook: 155 Recipes From Your Favorite Brewpubs & Breweries” (Storey, $19.95), John Holl brings chefs and brewers together in a way that vividly illustrates the affinities of food and beer while showing how much cooking and brewing have in common.
A decade ago, Brooklyn Brewery brewmaster Garrett Oliver offered the first comprehensive guide to pairing “real beer with real food” in his groundbreaking “The Brewmaster’s Table” (Ecco, $29.95). Originally, that book was supposed to contain recipes, Oliver writes in the forward to “The American Craft Beer Cookbook” before praising Holl for finding “even better recipes.”
Holl worked on the book for 2 1/2 years and tested all the recipes, which were gathered from breweries, brew pubs, chefs and beer-centric restaurants from across the United States, including Georgia’s Five Seasons, Sweetwater and Terrapin breweries.
“It was a lot of fun to learn about new breweries and to let people in on some breweries that aren’t that well known,” Holl said of the process. But as a longtime reporter and beer writer, he also was aware that the craft beer renaissance has spurred many more chefs at fine dining restaurants to feature stellar beer lists along with their wine lists.
“We’ve gotten to the point where people not only want to know about pairing good beer with good food but want something to help them do that,” Holl said. “That’s one of the big reasons I wanted to put this book together. Not being a chef, but being an avid home cook, I reached out to chefs all around the country.
“My goal was to find local and regional ingredients and styles of cooking and highlight those things. We’re still very much a melting pot of heritages and cultures and local foods. I wanted to combine that with the rise of craft beer,” Holl said. “People want to eat local and they want to drink local. That’s what emerged for me.”
Another of Holl’s goals was to feature a variety of settings and courses for meals that can be made better with beer.
“The biggest thing to me is convincing people that beer is an appropriate accompaniment with a good meal.” Holl said. “But people who have seen the book are excited to see recipes that go beyond burgers and nachos when it comes to beer pairings. We have chapters dedicated to salads and desserts and even breakfast recipes. That really surprises people. But I like that Sinatra line, ‘You can’t drink all day unless you start in the morning.’ ”
Holl sums up the current food and beer scenes as two dynamic sides of the same coin.
“For a long time, we were a culture that was eating Wonder Bread and Velveeta, and putting plastic trays into the microwave for a few minutes,” he said. “Whatever came out we called dinner, and we were satisfied with that. But now people have a better appreciation for what they eat. The same thing is true with beer. The local food movement and the local beer movement have come up together hand in hand.”
Recipes
These recipes from “The American Craft Beer Cookbook” by John Holl feature beer both as an ingredient and an accompaniment.
Arrogant Bastard Ale Avocado Tacos
Hands on: 40 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes
Serves: 6
The Stone Brewing Co. is vegetarian-friendly, and this recipe from the Southern California brewery offers strong proof. Stone recommends using its barbecue sauce (available on its website), or you may substitute another natural sauce. Accompany the tacos with black beans, rice and an American strong ale such as Arrogant Bastard Ale, which has a smack of hop bitterness.
For the Salsa Fresca
1 1/2 cups seeded and diced plum tomatoes
1/4 cup diced yellow onion
1/4 cup seeded and finely diced jalapeño peppers
1/4 cup lime juice
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Ale Battered Avocados
2 cups Stone Arrogant Bastard Ale, chilled
3/4 teaspoon Cajun spice blend
1/2 teaspoon ground dried chipotle chiles
1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
4 1/2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted and quartered
2 cups panko bread crumbs
salt
1 cup Stone Levitation Ale BBQ Sauce, or similar sauce
18 small corn tortillas
1 cup grated Asiago cheese
Microgreens or chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
To make the salsa fresca:
Combine the tomatoes, onion, jalapeños, lime juice and cilantro in a bowl and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 3 days to allow the flavors to mingle.
To make the avocado tacos:
Preheat oven to 200 degrees.
Pour the ale into a narrow high-sided container. Stir in the Cajun spice blend, chiles, garlic, salt and paprika.
Sift the flour and baking powder together in a small bowl, then add them to the beer mixture slowly, whisking well until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. Add more flour if necessary to create a tempura-style batter for coating the avocados. Set the batter aside.
Prepare a deep fryer or pour 2 to 3 inches of oil into a deep cast-iron or heavy pot that is at least 4 inches deep. Heat the oil to 360. Pour the bread crumbs into a shallow dish.
Use tongs to grab the avocado quarters and dunk them in the prepared batter. Shake off any excess and roll the avocados in the bread crumbs to coat all sides. Fry the avocados in batches until golden brown, 1 to 2 1/2 minutes each. (Do not overcrowd the pot, as this will lower the temperature of the oil significantly.)
Transfer the cooked avocados to a parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Season with a sprinkling of salt and keep them in the oven until the entire batch is ready.
To assemble the tacos:
Heat the barbecue sauce in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until heated through. Warm the tortillas on a griddle or in the oven.
Place one avocado quarter on each of the tortillas. Top each avocado with the warm barbecue sauce, salsa, cheese and microgreens. Serve immediately.
Per serving, entire recipe: 704 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 16 grams protein, 76 grams carbohydrates, 10 grams fiber, 39 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 17 milligrams cholesterol, 861 milligrams sodium.
Adapted from “The American Craft Beer Cookbook” by John Holl (Storey, $19.95).
Grilled Diver Scallops and Fall Vegetable Shish Kebabs With Hazelnut Brown Butter
Hands on: 45 minutes
Total time: 60 minutes
Serves: 4
For the final cool days before the grill is covered and stashed away for the winter, Oskar Blues offers this recipe that brings autumn flavors and ingredients to the beloved summer outdoor cooking experience. While fennel can have an assertive flavor, it loses some of its licoricelike taste as it cooks; the same is true of parsnips, which sweeten on the grill. The kebabs partner well with a Czech pilsner, a beer that showcases the floral and spicy aroma and finish of Saaz hops.
12 large fresh diver scallops
4 fennel bulbs, trimmed, cored and diced into 1 1/2-inch cubes
4 large parsnips, peeled and diced into 1 1/2-inch cubes
1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced into 1 1/2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (12-ounce) can Oskar Blues Mama’s Little Yella Pils or a similar beer
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped toasted hazelnuts
8 skewers — if using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 1 hour before grilling
Remove the scallops from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature. Prepare a medium fire in a gas or charcoal grill. If using charcoal, arrange the coals in a thin layer to evenly control the heat.
Combine the fennel, parsnips and butternut squash in a large bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Transfer the vegetables to a cast-iron skillet (or another grill-safe pan), season with salt and pepper, and place the pan on the grill. Cook, with the lid closed, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are a light golden brown, about 25 minutes.
Remove the skillet from the grill and deglaze with 1/4 cup of the beer. Remove the vegetables from the skillet and let cool for 5 minutes. Reserve any drippings in the skillet for later.
Using two skewers for each serving, alternately thread the scallops, fennel, parsnips and butternut squash onto the skewers. You should use three scallops on each set of skewers. Using two skewers for each serving will prevent the ingredients from spinning on the grill.
Season the kebabs with salt and pepper and lightly coat with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Grill the kebabs, turning once, until you’ve reached the desired level of doneness for the scallops, about 5 minutes per side for medium. Set aside and tent with foil while making the sauce.
Return the skillet to the grill; add the butter, hazelnuts and remaining 1 1/4 cups beer to the vegetable drippings. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is melted and lightly browned.
Per serving, entire recipe: 866 calories (percent of calories from fat, 56), 23 grams protein, 75 grams carbohydrates, 16 grams fiber, 56 grams fat (30 grams saturated), 152 milligrams cholesterol, 288 milligrams sodium.
Adapted from “The American Craft Beer Cookbook” by John Holl (Storey, $19.95).
Pale Ale Pineapple Brown Sugar Cupcakes
Hands on: 30 minutes
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
Makes: 24 cupcakes
This recipe comes from chef Erin Austin, who owns the Cupcake Brewery in North Carolina. Austin makes delicious baked treats, not beer, but regularly uses the state’s generous craft beer offerings to enhance her recipes. These sweet treats get an added boost from a pale ale that’s made with hop varieties that present mango and other tropical fruit flavors. A gentle and floral pale ale also pairs very well with this three-bite dessert.
For the cupcakes:
1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter
1 1/4 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 eggs
1 (15-ounce) can crushed pineapple, drained and juice reserved
4 1/4 cups cake flour
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup whole milk
1 (12-ounce) bottle pale ale
For the icing:
1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter
1 1/2 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
4 cups confectioners’ sugar, plus more as needed
2 tablespoons half-and-half, as needed
Candied pineapple (optional)
Note: The recipe will work best if all ingredients are at room temperature.
To make the cupcakes:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line muffin cups with paper liners.
Cream the butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar together in a large mixing bowl with an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the vanilla. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until well blended. Slowly add 1/4 cup of the reserved pineapple juice.
Combine the cake flour and baking powder in a medium mixing bowl. Add one-third of the flour mixture to the butter mixture, using the electric mixer on low speed, until just combined. Add the milk, beating until just combined. Add another one-third of the flour mixture to the batter, beating until just combined. Add the pale ale. Add the remaining one-third of the dry mixture, beating until just combined. Fold in the crushed pineapple until evenly distributed.
Divide the batter equally among the prepared muffin tins. Bake for 17 minutes, or until just lightly golden. Cool completely on wire racks, about 45 minutes.
To make the icing:
Melt 1/2 cup of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the brown sugar and vanilla until well mixed. Add the remaining 1/2 cup butter and stir until slightly thickened, like a runny caramel, about 17 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
Pour the confectioners’ sugar into a large mixing bowl. Slowly mix in the brown sugar mixture with an electric mixer until the frosting is light and fluffy. (If the icing is too stiff, slowly add the half-and-half, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it’s spreadable. If the icing is too thin, add more confectioners’ sugar, 2 tablespoons at a time, until spreadable.)
Pipe the icing on the cooled cupcakes and top each one with a small piece of candied pineapple, if using.
Per cupcake: 418 calories (percent of calories from fat, 36), 3 grams protein, 64 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 17 grams fat (10 grams saturated), 79 milligrams cholesterol, 263 milligrams sodium.
Adapted from “The American Craft Beer Cookbook” by John Holl (Storey, $19.95).
