WASHINGTON — A party is happening at this house in two hours. Yet, other than a heady cloud from the minced mass of ginger, garlic, onion and serrano peppers burbling on the stove, you wouldn’t know it.
On the menu, an Indian feast: ginger-cardamom butternut squash, garlicky portobello mushrooms, lentils with spinach, chickpeas tamely spiced with garam masala, curry-marinated shrimp, meatball curry, chicken-potato curry, basmati rice with cashews, a yogurt-cucumber sauce, a glorious salad and a sweet carrot pudding. It’s enough to make an early visitor think “Hurry, dinner!” on this weekday afternoon.
Hurry will not be part of the equation. Only two dishes are finished, with one under way, and that is more than enough to make a visitor eager. The scene is far from party-ready. But Daniel Phoenix Singh, the host and cook, who is also a dancer and IT guy, has choreographed the moves in his head. They are purposeful and unhurried. “It will all come together,” he says with a serene smile.
Singh, 38, is a vegetarian. Originally from a small village near Mumbai, he was motivated by a book he read that described how animals are processed for food. For his annual large-party buffets, though, he chooses to accommodate omnivores.
As intense and precise as Singh is onstage, he seems to wing it in the kitchen. A cupped palm cradles a heap of Indian red chile pepper. Is it one tablespoon, or three? He uses a stemless wineglass to gently slosh water into simmering lentils. Like his mother, he never reaches for a measuring cup or spoon. In fact, he doesn’t own a single one.
“I learned most of what I know ... from watching my mom and dad cook. No recipe books. Just going on instinct and often figuring out the taste they’d like to tease out by adding a pinch of this and a dash of that,” Singh says.
His mom, Violet Dorai Singh, is the source of his favorite recipes, and one of the family members responsible for Daniel’s passion for food with heat. He remembers watching uncles eat dishes so packed with chile peppers that tears streamed down their faces. “That meant it was good,” he says.
Back at party central, it’s 30 minutes till the official 7 o’clock invite. More guests have arrived, each commenting on the wonderful smells and leaving their shoes at the door. A buffet spread has materialized on the dining table, albeit with room at each end for designated helpers to chop cilantro and halve limes on small cutting boards. Perhaps the most visually mouthwatering offering is the salad he assembles in two minutes: mixed greens on a large round platter, piled with tumbling layers of blueberries, blackberries and grape tomatoes. People can’t wait to dive in.
“It’s cooling to eat with spicy foods,” he says; it’s another trick from his mom. “With juicy fruit, there’s no need for a dressing.”
Singh has started the Carrot Halwa, stirring sweetened condensed milk, sugar, grated carrots, cashews and raisins into what will become a silky, rich pudding. It will need to cook for at least two more hours. The mushrooms, shrimp and rice are done just before 8, about the time when the guests seem unable to hold back any longer.
In the end, as predicted, the timing was perfect. Dessert was ready when his guests had had opportunities to go for seconds or simply digest. Serene smiles all around.
RECIPES
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Carrot Halwa
Hands on: 2 hours, 15 minutes
Total time: 2 hours, 15 minutes Serves: 9-10
This sweet pudding can be served warm or cold.
4 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter), divided
1/3 to 1/2 cup roasted, unsalted whole cashews, plus more, coarsely chopped, for optional garnish
1/3 to 1/2 cup golden raisins, or to taste (optional)
2 pounds carrots, peeled, trimmed and grated
2 (28-ounce cans) sweetened condensed milk
8 to 10 green cardamom pods
1/2 cup granulated sugar, or to taste
In a medium nonstick pot or heavy-bottomed enameled pot over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons ghee. Add whole cashews (to taste) and raisins (to taste), if using, and stir to coat evenly. Cook for a few minutes, stirring, until lightly browned.
Add carrots and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the sweetened condensed milk, cardamom pods and sugar; stir to incorporate. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook uncovered for about 2 hours, stirring often to keep the mixture from sticking to the bottom of the pot. The milk will have cooked down, and the mixture should become darker in color. Remove from heat. If desired, remove cardamom pods. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons ghee until it melts.
Divide among individual dessert bowls. Garnish with chopped cashews, if desired.
Per half-cup: 500 calories (32 percent of calories from fat), 10 grams protein, 79 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 18 grams fat (10 grams saturated), 45 milligrams cholesterol, 200 milligrams sodium.
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Lentils and Spinach
Hands on: 11/2 hours
Total time: 11/2 hours Serves: 20
The lentils need to be soaked overnight. The finished dish can be refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen in 1-quart heavy-duty resealable plastic food storage bags for up to 3 months.
3 tablespoons olive oil
5 tablespoons minced fresh ginger root
5 tablespoons minced garlic
4 to 6 serrano or small jalapeño peppers, stemmed, seeded and minced (3 tablespoons)
3 medium red onions, minced (about 31/2 cups)
2 pounds dried lentils, soaked overnight
31/2 cups water, divided
1 or 2 tablespoons cumin seed, or to taste
10 whole, small red dried chile peppers
3 to 5 tablespoons mild curry powder, or to taste
11/2 to 2 tablespoons red chili powder (preferably Indian), or to taste
11/2 tablespoons coarse sea salt, or to taste
4 pounds frozen chopped spinach
Heat oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add ginger, garlic and serrano or jalapeño peppers. Cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add onions and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are just beginning to caramelize.
Add the lentils, discarding any excess soaking liquid. Stir to incorporate, then stir in 11/2 cups water, cumin seed (to taste), whole chile peppers, curry powder, red chili powder and salt. Once the mixture begins to bubble at the edges, stir in 1/2 cup water. Cook, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, to keep mixture from sticking to the bottom of the pot. The lentils should be fairly tender.
Stir in the (still frozen) spinach, working in batches as needed. Add remaining 11/2 cups water. Cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until warmed through. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.
Per cup: 250 calories (11 percent of calories from fat), 15 grams protein, 34 grams carbohydrates, 17 grams fiber, 3 grams (no saturated), no cholesterol, 650 milligrams sodium.
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Indian Meatballs
Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 2 hours Serves: 6-8
If making a smaller number, meatballs can be sautéed on the stovetop instead of baked. Serve with basmati rice.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (41/2-inch) piece fresh ginger root (peeled if desired), grated
Cloves from 1 head garlic, minced
2 to 4 serrano or small jalapeño peppers, stemmed and minced (with seeds)
2 large red onions, minced
2 large vine-ripened tomatoes, cored, then finely chopped (with juices)
2 to 3 tablespoons garam masala, divided
11/2 teaspoons salt, divided
1 to 11/2 cups water
2 pounds lean ground beef
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Have a large roasting pan at hand. Heat oil in a large nonstick saucepan over medium heat. Combine half the ginger, half the garlic, half the peppers and their seeds. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables just start to brown. Add half the onions, stirring to combine. Cook for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent and have softened. Stir in the tomatoes and their juices. Once the mixture starts to bubble, add 1 tablespoon garam masala and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, then add the water (as needed) to form a pourable sauce.
Combine the remaining ginger, garlic, peppers and seeds and the onions in a large mixing bowl, along with the ground beef, 1 to 2 tablespoons garam masala (to taste), the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and eggs. Use your clean hands to incorporate, making sure there are no clumps or pockets of spices. Wet your hands, then form 30 to 32 golfball-size meatballs, placing them in the roasting pan in a single layer as you work.
Pour the sauce evenly over the meatballs. Bake for about 1 hour, until the meat is cooked through.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Per serving (based on 8): 330 calories (44 percent of calories from fat), 25 grams protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 16 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 125 milligrams cholesterol, 530 milligrams sodium.
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