Food and politics are intrinsically intertwined throughout the world, including a small piece of land at the easternmost corner of the Mediterranean Sea that is home to both Palestinians and Israelis.
Given the realities of a daily life complicated by checkpoints and a separation wall, and where scents of tear gas often overpower the smell of fresh za’atar leaves, it’s easy to see how a friendly conversation about falafel-making or baklava-baking could suddenly take an uncomfortable turn.
Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley were prepared for those encounters as they traveled the country’s diverse and complicated regions, collecting stories of the food and people who call themselves “Falastinians” (there’s no hard P sound in Arabic, but there is a soft F) for their stunning collaboration: “Falastin: A Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press, $35).
Tamimi is the Palestinian chef of the famed Ottolenghi restaurants in London, which he started with the Jewish chef Yotam Ottolenghi. Both chefs were born in Jerusalem, and they've co-authored several best-selling cookbooks together. Wigley worked in publishing before going to cooking school in Ireland and then becoming Ottolenghi's longtime recipe tester and writing collaborator.
With Tamimi focused on the cooking and Wigley on the storytelling, the authors aimed to tell not one story of Palestine, but many stories, from multiple perspectives, through both the recipes and profiles of refugee camp cooks, chefs, tahini makers, agriculturists and others. Scenes of hardscrabble countrysides and weathered storefronts contrast photographed recipes such as Lemon Chicken with Za’atar; Eggplant, Chickpea, and Tomato Bake (get the recipe at ajc.com/cookbooks); and Labneh Cheesecake with Roasted Apricots, Honey, and Cardamom.
Varying opinions come through in the vibrant narratives. At the end is a glossary of “the pantry and politics of Palestine,” where a succinct explanation of OPT (Occupied Palestinian Territories”) appears between instructions for toasting nuts and suggestions for using rose water.
Palestine presents a sobering backdrop for showcasing recipes, but it’s one the authors believe must be fully shown for change to happen. And it’s also their hope that everyone, from whatever their viewpoint, “will come around the table to cook, eat, and talk.”
Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Follow her at susanpuckett.com.
Recipe: Eggplant, chickpea, and tomato bake
Echoes of Greek moussaka are correctly heard here, both in the name and the feel of the dish. It’s a vegetarian take on the hearty, humble, healthful, and completely delicious sheet-pan dish. It works well either as a veggie main or as a side with all sorts of things—piled into a baked potato, for example, or served alongside some grilled meat, fish, or tofu. It’s just the sort of dish you want to have in the fridge ready to greet you after a day at work. It’s also lovely at room temperature, so it’s great for an on-the-go lunch.
Getting ahead: You can make and bake this in advance; it keeps in the fridge for up to three days, ready to be warmed through when needed.
This recipe and headnote is reprinted with permission from Falastin: A Cookbook by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley, copyright © 2020. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.
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