Q: I grow organic heirloom tomato plants. How do I save the seeds? — Shawn Henderson, email
A: The "jelly" that surrounds each seed can inhibit germination. Save an unblemished ripe fruit, scoop out the seeds, and cover with water in a glass jar. Leave in a window; in a few days the water will be covered with white mold. Fill with warm water and shake. After an hour, viable seed will sink to the bottom of the jar while mold and debris will rise to the top. Remove the good seed and dry on a paper plate. Save in a cool, dry place until next spring. I have full notes at bit.ly/savetomatoseed.
Q: I've just had a septic system installed and my yard is trashed. I ultimately want zoysia and will be using seed. It will be the end of August before I can plant. Am I correct in thinking that it will be too late for zoysia seed? — Ben Kell, Fayette County
A: I think you're right: The tail end of August is mighty late to plant slow-spreading zoysia seed. I'd plant annual ryegrass in September, then spray it with glyphosate in late April to kill the rye. You can then till everything in early May, rake smooth, and spread 'Zenith' zoysia seed. Don't skip the tilling; you can't get good germination without disturbing the soil first.
Q: I want to grow lavender. Is there any kind that would be better suited to our climate north of Atlanta? — Angel Marie-Therese, email
A: I very much enjoyed recently seeing big fields of lavender near Sequim, on Washington's Olympic Peninsula. Mild summers and fast-draining soil make the area perfect for lavender. Closer to home, try 'Provence' lavender. Plant it in native soil mixed 1:1 with expanded slate (PermaTill, Soil Perfector). 'Phenomenal' lavender recently has been introduced and is said to be even better for high heat and high humidity.
Q: I have a nice front yard that has developed a disease that my extension office calls "take-all." It seems like it is spreading; is there a cure? — Henry Rome, email
A: Take-all patch affects all warm season grasses. One way to stop it is to lower the soil surface pH with peat moss. Put down a 1/2-inch layer of brown Canadian peat moss over dead spots. Break the peat into small pieces and distribute it evenly over the area. It's best if you mow the yard first. Water thoroughly after the peat is spread to settle it to the soil surface. That acidic layer, in contact with the grass runners, retards development of the fungus and allows the grass to regrow strongly. You'll need one 3.8 cubic foot bale of peat moss per 1,000 square feet. I have pictures and the research on this method at bit.ly/takeall.
Q: We had a yellow jacket nest in our backyard. Something dug up the nest and left a 3-inch hole there. Any idea what would do that? — Roger Todd, email
A: I'll give four guesses: raccoon, fox, armadillo or skunk. All are known to dig up nests when they are full of brood in autumn. There's no need to do anything except fill the hole with dirt.
