Why you shouldn’t burn pampas grass

This burned pampas grass did not sprout the next year because it got too hot in the center. (Walter Reeves for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Credit: Walter Reeves

Credit: Walter Reeves

This burned pampas grass did not sprout the next year because it got too hot in the center. (Walter Reeves for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Q: Could you explain the reason you don’t recommend burning pampas grass in spring? I am weary of cutting back this monster every year, and it is impossible to scrape out all the dead junk in the middle: It is too tightly packed! We divided it six years ago and it was a chore! I decided if it ever grew that large again, I would get Hubby to rent a backhoe to do the work. Now it already has a big dead spot in the middle. Kathy Laine, Scottsburg, Virginia

A: The goal is to keep the middle of the clump open so new sprouts can grow each year. And I agree with you that even a gloved hand will have a hard time raking stuff out. But burning a clump runs the risk of cooking the interior AND setting unintended fires nearby. Burning pampas grass fibers and plumes will lift above the fire and be carried away by any light breeze. If the plant is problematic, rent a backhoe and get rid of it for good.

Q: I did some pruning and discovered my shrubs have a severe case of loropetalum stem gall. I know it’s fatal, but the infected plants are near some distylium. Will they be infected? Lisa Howgate, email

A: Loropetalum gall spreads by water movement and contaminated tools used for pruning. The good news is that distylium shrubs do not get this gall. Depending on the severity of your infection, you could replace all of the infected loropetalum shrubs with distylium. This new shrub has been described as a Southern gardener’s dream. It grows in light shade to full sun, it has few insect or disease pests, it has flowers in the spring, and it is tough as nails. There are already several varieties available, ranging from the big and bulky Linebacker to the short and cascading Vintage Jade.

Q: We normally buy seedlings to plant our veggies but were feeling adventurous this year and started them from seed indoors. I have read you should “harden off” the plants before you actually plant them to get them used to the outdoors. What do you say? Bobbie Johnson, email

A: “Hardening off” is an important step before you plant the seedlings. If you grew them under lights or in a window, they won’t be able to tolerate the intensity of the sunshine when you put them in your garden. Hardening off is pretty simple: When night temperatures are above 50 degrees, just put them outdoors under a patio umbrella or under a small tree or in the shade of a wall where the sun doesn’t shine directly for a week. They will then be acclimated to outdoor conditions and you can put the seedlings in your garden.

Email Walter at georgiagardener@yahoo.com. Listen to his occasional garden comments on “Green and Growing with Ashley Frasca” Saturday mornings on 95.5 WSB. Visit his website, www.walterreeves.com, or join his Facebook Page at bit.ly/georgiagardener, for his latest tips.