Skip the peanut butter grits, and you’re fine


107 Main St. N.W., Lilburn., $$-$$$

2 of 5 stars [a worthy addition to its neighborhood]

Tucked a few streets off Lawrenceville Highway, Lilburn has its own hidden little town center, complete with the new chef-driven neighborhood restaurant 1910 Public House.

Here, chef Robert Elliott puts his stamp on Southern comfort classics. He has a tendency to tinker, sometimes delivering, sometimes not. The seniors and young children filling the tables may not appreciate some of his playful attempts, like putting peanut butter in the grits. Don’t get me wrong, there are some great bites to be had; Elliott just needs to tone it down and play more to his audience.

If you ride out the highs and lows, you’ll find a comfortable middle ground and will come to appreciate the simple dishes, like the aggressively seasoned cider-poached chicken. The deep golden sear belies the moisture contained within. Paired with a gooey pimento-cheese potato gratin, you have the makings of a mainstay.