“What’ll ya have? What’ll ya have? What’ll ya have? What’ll ya have?”

On a day such as this Saturday (Oct. 24), when Georgia Tech plays Florida State at nearby Bobby Dodd Stadium, thousands and thousands of people will dig in at the Varsity, a place that's the crossroads of old South and new. (Make no mistake: It's not just football that drives an appetite for the Varsity. It's plenty busy at other times, too.)

Just what makes the Varsity so magical? Join writer Wendell Brock for a look at the eatery's history, his own memories of the place -- and some hints on what to order.