Sugo is the kind of restaurant that defines the term "crowd pleaser." How else to explain the way this convivial northside Mediterranean concept -- owned by the Rhode Island-transplanted, half-Greek, half-Italian, Castellucci family -- has grown from its original Roswell location, to a second in Roswell, and a third in Duluth? And now, the family is set to open a new place in Decatur, called The Iberian Pig.
On a recent weeknight, the Duluth Sugo was packed with couples, small groups, and families, enjoying thin crust pizzas and supersize servings of pasta and entree specialties, while Castellucci patriarch, Frederic (aka Federico, aka "Mr. C"), worked the room -- shaking hands, patting shoulders, and making sure everybody was happy.
Hidden away at the back of The Shoppes at St. Ives, in country clubby Johns Creek, the pale stucco exterior and terra-cotta tile roof evoke Mediterranean architecture. Inside, the industrial space has been transformed with flowing drapery, fairy lights and barocco knickknacks. Fittingly, seating is cozy and familial, and there several private dining rooms for larger gatherings (you have to wonder, what goes on in the Puttanesca Room?).
Gooey-good stuff
Like the setting, the menu is made for sharing, with an assortment of tapas and mains that are enough for two or more. Plus, it's all really filling stuff. Most dishes tend toward the gooey-good, loaded with multiple elements, and covered in cheese or cream sauce. Many ingredients are sourced from local purveyors, including fresh pasta made by Via Elisa, and Italian meats and cheeses procured by Franco Boeri of Antico Mercante.
Squash blossoms, a delicately tangy summer tapas special, are stuffed with a combination of goat cheese and cream cheese, dipped in egg batter, pan-fried and served over a bit of cappelini pasta. Eggplant fries are first baked, then breaded and deep-fried to achieve an airy-crisp texture. With a side of peppery aioli, they make an addictive snack. Other small plates range from calamari stuffed with spinach and cheese to traditional Greek spinach pie, and the ever popular, and gigantic, Sugo sausage meatballs, stuffed with roasted tomatoes and dates.
Too much pork for one fork
Federico's pork braciole, which can be ordered in huge half or humongous full sizes, is a prime example of the "more is more" philosophy at Sugo. Pork tenderloins are packed with prosciutto, sausage, Pecorino Romano cheese, dates and caramelized onions, roasted, then sliced into thick rounds, covered with tomato-basil sauce and melted mozzarella. The dish is plated with mushrooms, roasted tomatoes and crispy long-stem artichokes.
"Loose Lasagna" is another gut-buster, with a soupy melange of meat, vegetables and cheese baked in a gratin dish under a single layer of noodles and cheese. Roman chicken cacciatore, slow-roasted lamb shank with meatballs and sausage, and cheese-filled pasta purses in creme sherry sauce with prosciutto and spinach are equally rich offerings.
Sugo
10305 Medlock Bridge Road, 770-817-8000
Signature dish: Federico's Pork Braciole
Entree prices: $12.95-$19.95 (market price fish and specials higher)
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays. 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Closed Sundays.
Reservations: Yes
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.sugorestaurant.com
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