It seems that when Richard Wadlington and his chef partner, Jorge Pacheco, took over the Inman Park space that was once home to Pacific Kitchen, they decided to retain the look, the fine dining prices and even a few of the menu items from that now defunct restaurant. Judging by the single table that was occupied on a recent weeknight visit, those decisions might not be working out so far — which is a shame, because Wadlington is a congenial host and Pacheco is a solid cook.
Diamond in the rough
Tucked away on a back street between Highland Avenue and Freedom Parkway, Pacific Kitchen always had the potential to become something of a hidden neighborhood gem. But its convoluted California cuisine, uneven cooking and expensive entrees just didn't add up.
Let's hope for the best, and call Park's Edge a diamond in the rough. Certainly the airy front patio and comfy interior with cozy tables and booths are as appealing as ever. At night, dim lighting, candles and soft jazz music play off chocolate brown walls and the black granite bar for a sexy, urban feel.
Spicy and sweet
Pacheco was born in Mexico City and moved to California as a teenager. His Mexican roots come through in dishes that can be quite piquant — layered with heat and spice and sometimes surprising bursts of sweetness. One night, the soup du jour was a rich, dark puree of black beans with a pronounced chile kick, topped with tortilla strips and a drizzle of cilantro oil. Grilled Caesar salad is an appealing mix of long sections of charred romaine, creamy-spicy dressing and crunchy garlic crostoni. Pacheco's signature sesame crusted salmon is nicely cooked, combining a crispy crust and moist, pink flesh. And a green curry beurre blanc makes a tasty accompaniment. But a strawberry red onion ragu, layered between the salmon and a scoop of sticky rice, is a rather jarring, pickled-sweet contrast.
Other entrees include airline chicken breast, grilled flank steak with chimmi churrie sauce, panned seared snapper or sea bass, and grilled lamb loin with couscous.
Starters range from deep fried calamari and mini fish tacos to avocado spring rolls and a duck quesadilla.
House-made ice cream, such as cinnamon and vanilla raspberry, is a feature of the dessert menu.
Besides the usual omelets and Eggs Benedict, the Sunday brunch menu displays Latin and New Orleans influences, with shrimp and grits, huevos and chorizo, and enchiladas suizas.
Red plum sangria and a Key lime martini are among the offerings on the bar menu, along with a thoughtful selection of mostly California and South American wines.
AT A GLANCE
•
Where:
913 Bernina Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-584-7275
• Signature dish
:
Sesame crusted salmon
• Entree prices
:
$17-$27
• Hours: Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Sundays, Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. Closed Mondays.
• Reservations: Yes
• Credit cards: Yes
• Online
:
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