Breakfast spot is no place to splurge

Folk Art, the new Inman Park breakfast-all-day spot from Wisteria chef-owner Jason Hill, masters some of the criteria for a great cafe, but not all.

The prices are reasonable and the kitschy license plate-laden decor comes together in a way that is both laid-back and energetic. Where it falters is in unpredictable service and a menu boasting big comfort food that quickly becomes monotonous, lacking the oomph that would make it worth the splurge. This is not Wisteria.

Still, you can get your dose of food therapy with a heaping serving of the flat-top mac and cheese — casserole-style mac griddled with extra cheese for a toasty, crackling crust on top of the gooey goodness. Or get your cheese on with the craft “5” grilled cheese, a melty mess of yum, with layers of cheddar, provolone, Gruyere, Swiss and creme brie.

Folk Art doesn’t have the same execution, finesse or level of service as Wisteria. But it also doesn’t come with the same price tag. No matter what you expect from chef Hill, what you have is a businessman who has given the neighborhood what it wants: an affordable breakfast-and-lunch hangout to add to the rotation for those within walking distance.