Chef Terry Koval (The Deer and the Dove, B-Side)
When chef Terry Koval participated in a 2018 Slow Food Terra Madre conference in Turin, Italy, he returned to Atlanta infatuated with one simple dish: tagliatelle with fresh tomatoes, sausage, basil and Parmesan.
“I came back and made it every single week at home,” he said. His wife, Jenn, loved the pasta dish. So did his kids, Olivia and Jackson. The family favorite was such a success that the Kovals put it on the menu when their restaurant, The Deer and the Dove, debuted last year in Decatur Square. That same pasta dish is back on the menu, just in time for the restaurant’s one-year anniversary.
While Terry Koval may be the one in charge of tagliatelle family dinner nights, Olivia, 16 and Jackson, 6, are upping their own culinary game – with a little help from Dad.
“At the beginning of the coronavirus, for the first few months, I had been making breakfast for my son every day,” said Koval. “Now, it’s to the point that he is making his own scrambled eggs. They are amazing. He’s got the French technique down,” A few months ago, he gave Olivia a tutorial in breaking down a whole chicken, he added.
During the coronavirus pandemic, the Kovals have had to focus their attention on the Deer and the Dove and adjacent all-day cafe, B-Side. Olivia often babysits her brother while their parents work, but there have been family moments, even at work. Last week, Jackson was on the assembly line, putting together 300 meals for healthcare workers.
This year, the Kovals will delay their Father’s Day celebration because Dad has to work on Sunday. “We’ll probably celebrate Monday when we’re closed. In the morning, we’ll have some time,” Koval said. Maybe Jackson will even whip up scrambled eggs.
Andre Gomez of Porch Light Latin Kitchen with his family.
Chef Andre Gomez (Porch Light Latin Kitchen)
Andre Gomez has three children, although his spouse begs to differ. “I’m the fourth one, according to my wife,” joked the chef-owner of Porch Light Latin Kitchen.
At his Smyra restaurant, Gomez puts a spotlight on the fare of his native Puerto Rico. The food of his heritage has since become his own kids’ favorite: beans and rice, pork chops, plantains and avocados. But especially beans and rice. “If Daddy’s cooking, that’s what they want,” Gomez said.
For Christmas last year, Andre Ryan (10), Alexander (9) and Addison Raquel (7) gave their father a present that spoke to their love of rice and beans. “They bought special bowls for me to have at the restaurant for when the come to eat there. For those bowls, it has to be rice and beans,” Gomez said.
Gomez became emotional as he explained the significance of his children’s gift to him: his children had formed a cultural connection with their Puerto Rican heritage through food. “I am so far away from home. They don’t get – other than at home or at the restaurant – to eat the Puerto Rican food I grew up with.”
Addison Raquel eats from her dedicated bowl often. “During this whole corona bananas, my daughter comes to the restaurant to help. Every time she works, she says, ‘Where’s my rice and beans?’ That’s how they get paid: in rice and beans,” he said.
Chef Ron Hsu of Lazy Betty cooking with his daughter, Calliope.
Chef Ron Hsu (Lazy Betty)
Chef Ron Hsu’s daughter Calliope is just shy of 2 years old, but the toddler already has a sophisticated palate.
Hsu, owner and chef at Lazy Betty in Candler Park, and his wife steered clear of the often bland vegetable purees given to babies when they first start solid foods and quickly started feeding their daughter whatever they ate.
The result? A kid who has bypassed the almost universal picky phase.
“She’s willing to try anything,” Hsu said.
That means gourmet dishes like pizza -- a favorite of Calliope’s -- made with homemade dough and topped with clams or braised collard greens and pork roast with a tamarind laquer are often on the menu.
Calliope doesn’t just like trying the things her parents make -- she also likes getting in on the action.
Hsu often cooks with his daughter strapped to him in a carrier so she can see what’s going on, and he’ll give her small tasks so she can “help”, from squeezing the lemon over the clam pizza to sprinkling salt into soup or stews.
“She loves to get involved,” he said. “She sees us cleaning up, so she’ll make a little mess (on purpose) and then grab a towel because she thinks that’s the routine.”
Hsu, whose parents operated several Chinese restaurants when he was growing up, said he enjoys having sit down meals with his family that were more of a rarity when he was growing up. One family tradition he's passed along is a love of fried rice, a dish his parents made for him and their siblings as kids.
“She asks for it every morning,” he said.
He doesn’t always give in, but admits it’s a good way to sneak some vegetables in to his baby gourmand’s diet.
Calliope Hsu gives her clam pizza a squeeze of lemon.
Clam Pizza with Herbs, Lemon, and Clam Dip
- For the starter dough:
- Wheat flour 35 grams
- Bread flour 319 grams
- water (45*F) 354 grams
- Yeast (active dry) 0.3
- For the final dough:
- Wheat flour 64 grams
- Bread flour 574 grams
- Water (55*f) 241 grams
- Fine sea salt 20 grams
- Yeast (active dry) 0.6 grams
- Pizza toppings:
- 1lb little neck clams, thoroughly rinsed
- 3 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced (1 clove set aside)
- 1 cup white wine
- 1 tbsp parsley, chopped
- 1 sprig of oregano
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- ½ cup fresh mozzarella grated
- ½ lemon
- Mix all the starter dough ingredients together and let it sit for 24 hours, covered, in a room temperature environment
- Process for the final dough: Add the water from the “final dough” recipe to the starter and mix in a kitchen aid, then add dry ingredients. Knead until smooth, 4-5 minutes. You may need to remove from the mixer and knead by hand. Makes 6 balls at 250 grams each. Let the balls ferment for 24 hours in fridge covered before using.
- Process for toppings: In an 11inch saute pan over medium heat, cook 2 tbsp of the garlic in 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil until garlic is a light golden brown, add the clams, then the white wine, and then increase heat to high and cover with a lid. Steam until the clams open, 5-8 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open. Strain the clam juice in the pan through a fine mesh sieve and reserve the liquid. Once the clams are cool enough to handle remove the clams from the shells and discard the shells.
- Process for the pizza: Roll out one dough ball to about 12” wide in diameter. Spread the creme fraiche in one even layer around the dough and evenly distribute the other clove of sliced garlic onto the pizza dough. Next place the clams evenly amongst the pizza, about 14-18 morsels of clams. Finally spread the mozzarella evenly out onto the dough. Season the pizza with salt and pepper and bake in a preheated oven at 525 *F (8-10 min), or a wood fired oven at 700 *F (2-3 minutes), until the crust is a dark golden brown. Remove the pizza from the oven, sprinkle with the parsley and oregano and a grate a little fresh parmesan over the top and squeeze half a lemon over the pizza. Dip the crust of the pizza in the reserved clam juice for an extra treat!
Kennedy Marie Griggie talks favorite Hattie Marie's BBQ dishes
Chef Willie Griggie (Hattie Marie’s Texas Style BBQ & Cajun Kitchen)
Hattie Marie's Texas Style BBQ & Cajun Kitchen chef and co-owner Willie Griggie III’s number one fan is his 14-year-old daughter, Kennedy Marie Griggie.
“She’s a daddy’s girl at heart,” he said. He recounted Kennedy’s welcome wagon when he and wife Ramona recently returned from a trip. “We pulled into the garage. She ran to the car door, waited for me to open the door, jumped on me, hugged me and kissed me.”
Kennedy’s love for her father extends to his cooking, too. “She thinks he’s the best cook ever. She thinks his cooking is better than mine,” said Ramona Griggie.
“She is a lobster fanatic,” said her father. “Broiled lobster, lobster tails, lobster mac and cheese….And tomahawk steaks – she loves those. She has a high-end palate.”
Father’s Day might be his day, but that menu will feature stuffed lobster tails to please Kennedy, he said.
She’s not the one preparing lobster just yet, but her dad is watching as his daughter learns her way around a kitchen. “She just started cooking recently. She’ll prepare starter dishes: scrambled eggs, waffles, spaghetti.”
It’s too early to know whether Kennedy will follow her father’s culinary path. “She is a true teen. She does not want to be at the restaurant. She wants to be on the phone and Facetime with her friends,” he said.
Shortly after the interview, he texted a note. “Kennedy wanted me to let you know that she did work at the restaurant recently. We gave away 450 meals to the graduating class at Westlake High School and she came in and assisted. I have to give my baby girl her credit!!”
That same day, Kennedy woke up early to record a video to give her own dad a bit of credit, too.
Like father, like daughter.
Chef Takashi Otsuka with his daughter Julia in front of his restaurant, Wagaya. COURTESY OF TAKASHI OTSUKA
Chef Takashi Otsuka (Chirori, Wagaya)
Though he admits the coronavirus pandemic hasn’t been easy, especially for a single dad, chef Takashi Otsuka has enjoyed spending extra time with his five-year-old daughter, Julia, who he calls Juju. He cares for her three days a week and she often accompanies him to the restaurant because, unlike many others in town, Wagaya was already set up for steady takeout business. As a result, “I’m probably not cooking as much at home as I should,” said Otsuka.
Despite that, Otsuka readily names Julia’s favorite foods. “She’s such an Asian kid,” said Otsuka, laughing as he listed her top three dishes: teriyaki chicken, miso soup and rice.
Otsuka also has a secret weapon - a dish that he and his daughter enjoy making together. “It’s called a Japanese hamburger,” he said, “it’s a beef patty with a demi-glace sauce.” The patties have a few more ingredients than a typical American hamburger, and it gets a shot of Japanese flavor from soy sauce, ponzu, mirin and sake.
“It’s fun because you make the patties with your kids,” said Otsuka. “It’s a good ‘together’ activity because it’s cooking but you’re not letting them go straight to the fire. It’s also something that I used to eat when I was a kid.”
With kindergarten looming for Julia and Wagaya slowly adapting to post-quarantine dining, this spring has been an opportunity for father and daughter to spend an unusual amount of time together. Otsuka, who converted the Chirori space into a Japanese grocery store, said that he will likely move his retail operation to Wagaya’s lower level. Then, he can use Chirori’s space adjacent to the more casual Wagaya to seat additional diners with proper social distancing. It’s going to be a busy summer for him, but he’ll be doing his best for Julia. “I’m trying to teach her some things and make her study,” he said. “But it’s been a challenge, for sure.”
Despite the challenges, father and daughter have enjoyed more time together and Otsuka said he was excited to share their Japanese hamburger recipe. “It’s good to show people that Japanese food is more than sushi and ramen,” he said with a laugh.
Wahu (Japanese) Hamburger Steak
- 10.5 ounces ground beef
- Scant 1/2 cup yellow onion, chopped and lightly stir fried
- 1 clove garlic, chopped
- 1 1/4 cup panko bread crumbs
- 1 1/4 cup milk
- 1 egg
- Pinch nutmeg
- Salt and pepper to taste
- In a large bowl, mix together all ingredients except beef.
- Add beef to the bowl and mix well, preferably using your hands. Press on the mixture with your hand to tamp it down and remove any air bubbles.
- To shape the patties, divide the mixture into two equal portions. Shape one portion into a rough ball, then toss it back and forth between your hands repeatedly. This further removes any air pockets.
- Set the patty aside and use your hands to press it into a flat oval or circular shape. Let it rest 3 minutes or so.
- In a lightly-oiled medium-sized non-stick skillet over medium heat, cook the patties to desired level of doneness - about 4-6 minutes per side for medium.
Japanese Hamburger Demi-Glace
- 3 Tbs ponzu sauce
- 2 Tbs mirin
- 1 Tbs soy sauce
- 1 Tbs sugar
- 1 Tbs sake
- 2 tsp butter
- On medium-high heat, combine all ingredients in the pan used to cook the hamburger patties. Bring the mixture to a boil for 2-3 minutes, stirring often. The sauce is ready when the sugar is dissolved and it has slightly thickened. Pour the sauce directly over the hamburger steaks.
An herbed frittata that chef Drew Belline of No. 246 likes to make with his kids.
Chef Drew Belline (No. 246)
Whether he’s cooking with his kids at home or running the kitchen at No. 246 in Decatur, chef Drew Belline uses the same approach – focusing on making simple but delicious food.
The most recent cooking projects he’s tackled with his daughters Madeline, 13, and Kiley, 9, involve the output from the eight chickens that live in their backyard.
“We’ve been focusing a lot on egg cookery,” he said, including omlettes and frittatas, supplemented with herbs from their herb garden.
Belline, who grew up on a small farm property in North Fulton County before it became more developed, said learning to cook was a big part of his childhood that he was eager to pass on to his kids.
“I love having them involved,” he said. “It’s important that they learn how to cook, and it’s a great way to spend time with them.”
Even better when he can teach two lessons in one go, like when he helps them perfect cooking with eggs while also explaining the difference between store bought and farm fresh eggs.
“The connection to where our food comes from is so important, and it’s something a lot of people miss out on,” he said. “I want them to know that not all of our food comes from the produce aisle at Publix.”
Herbed Fritta with Parmesan Mousse
- For the fritta:
- 5 farm eggs
- ½ cup chopped fine herbs
- ¼ cup diced summer onion
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 pat of butter
- ½ tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- Sea salt and pepper to taste
- The vegetables listed below are optional and can change with season….
- 1/3 cup shitakes
- 1/3 cup young squash
- For the Parmesan Mousse:
- 1 cup heavy cream
- ½ cup of micro planed parmesan
- 2 cloves
- 1 piece of smashed garlic
- 1 sprig of thyme
- Salt to taste
- To prepare first make the mousse by bringing the cream, garlic, thyme and cloves to simmer. Remove from the heat and whisk in the grated parmesan, strain and chill. Once cooled whip the cream with a whisk until it has the consistency of whipped cream and season with sea salt. We like to place it in a bowl, top with a generous amount of EVOO, maldon salt and fresh black pepper. It can be used on all kinds of dishes but is especially delicious on sliced summer tomatoes with basil.
- For the fritta pre heat the oven to 350 degrees. In a non-stick skillet over medium high heat add the EVOO along with anything that needs to cook before you add the eggs. For this recipe, we are using some beautiful shitakes and young patty pan squash that came from our Love is Love farm share, but it could really be anything that is in season. For example, sungold tomatoes and chanterelles or spring onions and fava beans, or ham and peas, etc.
- For this recipe we cook the mushrooms first until soft, about 2 minutes, then add the onions and garlic and butter and gently cook for another minute. Then we add the squash, toss and add the 5 eggs which have been beaten with 1/3 cup of water and salt. Quickly incorporate the herbs and then leave it alone and let it begin to set up for 30 seconds on the stove. Pop it in the oven and let it continue to cook until just barely set, maybe even leave just a touch loose, as it will carry over and you don’t want it to become overcooked. Maybe 3.5 to 4.5 minutes.
- Quick tip: We only made one for breakfast because it was just the 2 of us, but for a larger group and a more dramatic presentation make 3 frittas and stack them like a layer cake. Between each layer micro plane parmesan and top with more herbs.
- Serve with the parmesan cream and some fresh summer fruit that has been tossed with more basil and EVOO.
Read more stories like this by liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook, following @ATLDiningNews on Twitter and @ajcdining on Instagram.