Southern Italian wines are just beginning to get their due. It’s been a long time coming. And the whites are less known than the sturdy reds. This Fiano di Avellino, a white from Tenuta Sarno in Campania (Naples is its capital) is a real stunner. I’ve always loved Fiano: This one is top of the class, with a deep minerality and complex flavors of quince, pears and almonds, it is brilliant with seafood.