FOR SALE AT LOCAL FARMERS MARKETS
Vegetables: arugula, Asian greens, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, chard, collards, endive, escarole, herbs, Jerusalem artichokes, kale, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, mustard greens, Napa cabbage, peanuts, radicchio, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, spring onions, sweet potatoes, turnips, winter squash
From local reports
Northern farmers can grow leeks as big around as a jelly jar. So says Mark Capps of Straight from the Backyard Farm. “Leeks like well-drained soil like where they originated around the Mediterranean. And they’re an old vegetable. I know the Egyptians ate them. We get some great leeks, but nothing like jelly jar size,” Capps said.
At this time of year, Straight from the Backyard Farm can be found selling its winter produce at the Saturday morning Marietta Square Farmers Market.
Capps and Lynn Teddlie farm in Loganville where they set out leeks in spring and fall. In spring, they put in between 10,000 and 12,000 transplants. In the fall, they only put in 5,000 or 6,000 plants.
“At the first of the year, we buy ‘Lancelot’ transplants and put them in the field in March. We can keep them all the way through the summer if we keep a lot of water on them. If you don’t, the plants get woody and dried out. In June, we can’t get transplants, so we start seeds of ‘Broad London,’ also known as ‘American Flag’ for the fall and winter crop. We get them into the ground in the first or second week of August and they can grow on until January and February.” It can take 120 to 150 days in the ground for leeks to grow to full size.
Leeks are a hardy winter vegetable. Capps found his leeks survived last winter when the temperatures dropped to 4 degrees.
Whether planted in spring or late August, the plants go into a trench and as they grow, Capps and Teddlie use a hoe to mound dirt around the stalks so they develop a long white shank. That’s the part of the leeks used in cooking. The green tops are too tough for eating, although Capps finds some customers use them to flavor soups or stocks.
“All that hoeing is why it’s really important to clean leeks well when you get them home. Slice the leeks longways and rinse well to get all the dirt out,” he says.
Capps likes leeks sauteed in butter and says they work really well paired with seafood, where an onion would be too strong a flavor.
“We consider the leeks a gourmet item. When we first started out, they weren’t so popular, but people who come from up north knew them. They were looking for things like leeks and beets. Now leeks are a big seller with everyone,” said Capps.
Steven Satterfield’s Johnny Cakes with Leeks
Satterfield, executive chef of Miller Union, once demonstrated this recipe at the Morningside Farmers Market and now it’s in his new cookbook coming out in March, “Root to Leaf: A Southern Chef Cooks Through the Seasons” (HarperWave, $45). “Johnny cake, griddle cake, hoe cake: They all mean the same thing, but I prefer the more whimsical nickname derived from the term ‘journey cake.’ During Colonial times, these crisp, dense cornmeal pancakes that were sometimes cooked on a hot garden hoe were sturdy enough to withstand a long trip and still offer sustenance. I use these as a vessel for many flavors, including braised pork, grilled shrimp or roasted vegetables. Note that there is no leavening and no need to grease the pan. The batter can be made a day in advance,” he said.
Since a leek will yield more than a half cup, slice up the rest and saute in a little butter, then serve them with your Johnny Cakes.
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup whole milk
2 cups fine cornmeal
3 teaspoons kosher salt
1 1/2 cups boiling water
1/2 cup thinly sliced leeks
In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the butter and milk together until the butter is melted. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal and salt. Whisk in the hot water, then add the hot milk and butter mixture. Add the leeks and stir to combine.
Warm an ungreased cast iron skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Using 1/4 cup measure, spoon batter onto the hot surface. Cook until edges are lightly browned and crisp and batter surface has turned opaque, about 3 minutes. Turn cakes and finish cooking on the other side, about 1 minute. Do not crowd pan. Repeat until all batter is used. Serve hot. Makes: 32 cakes
Per cake: 59 calories (percent of calories from fat, 47), 1 gram protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 3 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 8 milligrams cholesterol, 179 milligrams sodium.
About the Author
