Richly textured fish coated with a generous mix of fresh herbs and dried spices will need wines to complement those flavors and match the texture.
The food: Baked Moroccan-style spiced fish
Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Place 4 fillets (6 ounces each) haddock, cod or other firm white fish on a greased baking sheet. Brush with 2 tablespoons olive oil; season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs, 1/2 yellow onion, minced, 1/3 cup chopped cilantro, 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom and 1/8 teaspoon paprika. Stir in 1 tablespoon olive oil. Coat top of the fish with the rub. Bake until fish is opaque and flakes easily with a fork, about 12 minutes. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Kristin Eddy
The wines
By sommelier Rachael Lowe, wine director of Spiaggia and Spiaggia Cafe in Chicago, as told to Michael Austin:
• 2013 Venus la Universal Dido Blanc, Montsant, Catalonia, Spain: Some of the grapes that make up this blend come from 70-year-old vines, and aging is done partly in a clay amphora and partly in varying sizes of wood barrels, yielding a rich wine with great texture. Notes of bruised golden apple, Bosc pear and baking spices will stand up well to the firm flesh of the fish while also mirroring the dish's zesty lemon and herb components.
• 2011 Jeanne Gaillard Marsanne, Vins de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, France: Made from grapes sourced from the region of Crozes-Hermitage in the northern Rhone Valley, this rich wine is a product of slow barrel fermentation, stirred on the lees weekly. Aromas of mango, pineapple, wet stone and honeycomb will stand up well to the paprika and notes of cumin and cardamom. Also, the wine's lower acidity provides a waxy texture that will wrap itself around the flavors of the dish perfectly.
• 2006 Ca'Ronesca, Tocai Friulano, Collio, Italy: Friulano is an aromatic grape variety, and this version of it enjoys extensive bottle age, making for a very intellectual wine with great character. Notes of macerated apricots, honeysuckle, chamomile and candied ginger will intermingle harmoniously with the dish's spices, caramelized onions and cilantro. The richness of the wine will mimic the flesh of the fish, but the acidity of the lemon will cut through it all, creating an interesting combination of contrast and complement.
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