Go rich or go crisp with wine for a shrimp roll

Shrimp rolls with rich avocado and crispy cabbage. (Bob Fila/Chicago Tribune/TNS)

Combined ShapeCaption
Shrimp rolls with rich avocado and crispy cabbage. (Bob Fila/Chicago Tribune/TNS)

A lobster roll is a coveted thing, but if you can’t get your hands on lobster, or you’re put off by the price, turn to another crustacean. Shrimp rolls are not lobster rolls, no. But they’re rich and satisfying in their own right. With the seafood and the spicy sour cream sauce, you’ll want a refreshing pour. Here are three white wines that rise to the occasion.

Make this: Shrimp Rolls

Combine 1/2 cup sour cream, juice of 1/2 lime, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 2 drops hot sauce. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes; cook until garlic is soft, about 1 minute. Increase heat to medium-high; add 1/2 pound large shrimp, peeled, deveined, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until just pink, 3 minutes. Spread 4 toasted sandwich rolls with sour cream mixture; layer with chopped cabbage, shrimp and avocado slices. Makes: 4 servings

Recipe by Donna Pierce

Drink this

Pairings by sommelier Parag Lalit of Sixteen, as told to Michael Austin:

2002 Weingut Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese, Nahe, Germany: This old vine riesling offers sweet calamansi lime, stone fruit and delicate off-dryness. The vines have captured the saline, mineral expression of the vineyard’s slate-dominant soil, and this unique combination of delicate sweetness and sharp acidity will not only contrast the boldness of savory flavors (cilantro and hot sauce), but also cleanse the palate of the dish’s richness.

2014 Arnot-Roberts Watson Ranch Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California: Fitting the description of “iron fist in a velvet glove,” this wine showcases power and finesse simultaneously. Lactic tones reminiscent of creme fraiche, coupled with tart citrus and orchard fruit, are a result of the mineral expression of the vineyard. The overall texture and richness of the wine will stand up to the fats (cream, avocado, oil) but also respect the shrimp’s leanness.

2014 Bodegas Los Bermejo Malvasia Seco, Lanzarote, Spain: This white wine comes from the Canary Islands, where century-old vines (a common sight on the island of Lanzarote) render minuscule yields but impart incredible concentration and personality to the malvasia grape variety. In this wine, that results in a bouquet of prickly pear, kaffir lime, custard apple and summer honey, plus tropical nuances and fresh citrus to counter the fats in the dish.