Pairings by sommelier Parag Lalit of Sixteen, as told to Michael Austin:
2002 Weingut Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese, Nahe, Germany: This old vine riesling offers sweet calamansi lime, stone fruit and delicate off-dryness. The vines have captured the saline, mineral expression of the vineyard’s slate-dominant soil, and this unique combination of delicate sweetness and sharp acidity will not only contrast the boldness of savory flavors (cilantro and hot sauce), but also cleanse the palate of the dish’s richness.
2014 Arnot-Roberts Watson Ranch Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California: Fitting the description of “iron fist in a velvet glove,” this wine showcases power and finesse simultaneously. Lactic tones reminiscent of creme fraiche, coupled with tart citrus and orchard fruit, are a result of the mineral expression of the vineyard. The overall texture and richness of the wine will stand up to the fats (cream, avocado, oil) but also respect the shrimp’s leanness.
2014 Bodegas Los Bermejo Malvasia Seco, Lanzarote, Spain: This white wine comes from the Canary Islands, where century-old vines (a common sight on the island of Lanzarote) render minuscule yields but impart incredible concentration and personality to the malvasia grape variety. In this wine, that results in a bouquet of prickly pear, kaffir lime, custard apple and summer honey, plus tropical nuances and fresh citrus to counter the fats in the dish.