Who knew pimento cheese — the paté of the South — had so many variations and uses? Memphis writer Perre Coleman Magness sets us straight in "Pimento Cheese: The Cookbook" (St. Martin's Griffin, 138 pages, $21.99), a charmer of a book filled with 50 recipes that make use of the memorable combo of pimento and Cheddar cheese.

There’s creamy pimento soup and pimento mac-and-yet-more cheese. Pimento bread-and-butter savory pudding, popovers, scrambled eggs, biscuits, chicken pot pie and, well, the list goes on and on. I’m hungry already.

If your taste buds are more familiar with the commercial version based on cream cheese, this recipe from Magness will keep you satisfied:

In the bowl of a standard mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat 4 ounces softened cream cheese on medium speed until smooth. Add 8 oz. grated sharp cheddar cheese, 1/4 cup mayo, 2-oz. jar (or heaping 2 Tbsp.) rinsed and drained pimentos that are diced, 2 tsp. finely chopped freshly parsley, 1/4 tsp. sweet paprika, 1/4 tsp. garlic powder, a few generous grinds of black pepper and dash of kosher salt. Mix on medium speed until well-combined.

PC’s Pimento Cheese

Makes about 3 1/2 cups.

Note: This is the house blend of pimento cheese from the author, who includes nuts, though she acknowledges that some purists may be appalled by that addition. From "Pimento Cheese: The Cookbook," by Perre Coleman Magness.

1 cup pecan halves (see Note)

1 (2-oz.) jar chopped pimentos with liquid

2 tsp. garlic salt

Dash of cayenne pepper or a shot of hot sauce

8 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar cheese

8 oz. sharp white Cheddar cheese

1 cup mayonnaise, more or less

Place the pecans and pimentos with their liquid, garlic salt and cayenne to taste in a food processor fitted with the metal blade and pulse a few times to chop the nuts and blend the pimentos; do not let the mixture turn into a paste.

Remove the metal blade and fit the processor with the grating disk. Grate the cheeses. Turn the mixture into a bowl, scraping down the sides of the processor bowl well. Add the mayonnaise, a little at a time, and stir to blend until you reach the desired consistency. Serve as a spread on bread or stuff celery sticks with it.

This will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container, for 1 week.

Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons: calories 144; fat 14 g; sodium 220 mg; carbohydrates 1 g; saturated fat 5 g; calcium 88 mg; protein 4 g; cholesterol 20 mg; dietary fiber 0 g.

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1/2 high-fat meat, 2 fat.

Pimento Beer Cheese

Makes about 3 cups.

Note: Serve this with pretzels or apple slices or spread on a hamburger bun to melt over the meat. From "Pimento Cheese: The Cookbook," by Perre Coleman Magness.

1 lb. sharp orange Cheddar cheese

1 (4-oz.) jar diced pimentos, rinsed and drained

2 garlic cloves

1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. sweet paprika

Dash or two of hot sauce

1/2 cup beer (preferably lager)

Cut the cheese into small chunks and put into the bowl of a food processor. Add the pimentos, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, salt, paprika and hot sauce to taste, and process just until it starts to break up and form a paste.

Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then start the food processor and drizzle in the beer until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Scrape the beer cheese into a container, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours, or until the cheese is firm and the flavors have melded. Serve cold.

This will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container, for 1 week.

Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons: calories 80; fat 6 g; sodium 165 mg; carbohydrates 1 g; saturated fat 4 g; calcium 100 mg; protein 5 g; cholesterol 20 mg; dietary fiber 0 g.

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 medium-fat meat.