Microbes have gotten a bad rap. Sure, they’re at the center of the Zombie Apocalypse, but not all microbes are bad. Some, in fact, are very, very good. Like those we use to preserve food, making it healthier and tastier at the same time. So, fear not the undead flu. Today, we’re making sauerkraut.
Why you need to learn this
Store-bought sauerkraut tastes fine, of course — if you like that sort of thing. Homemade sauerkraut, though, is about a gajillion times better in flavor and texture. Also, because canned products have been pasteurized, the kraut within lives in a sterile, albeit stinky, environment. Homemade sauerkraut has the advantage of being filled with what the kids are calling “probiotics,” beneficial microbes that can aid digestion and boost our immune systems.
The steps you take
The word of the day is “lacto-fermentation.” True, it’s similar to zombification, only instead of transforming something dead into something unspeakable, lacto-fermentation transforms something fresh into something wonderful. Thousands of years before humans even knew what bacteria were, we were using lacto-fermentation to preserve food. Today we do it as much for the flavor as we do for the preservation. Here’s how it works:
We’ll start by talking about those microbes. Specifically, bacteria. There are two basic types of bacteria: aerobic, which require oxygen; and anaerobic, which can survive without it. Sauerkraut is made by tossing thinly sliced cabbage with salt and pressing it into a container. The salt draws water from the cabbage, creating a brine under which the cabbage is completely submerged. When this happens, the anaerobic bacteria begin to multiply and feed off the sugars in the cabbage, producing lactic and acetic acids and carbon dioxide. The acids and the increasing numbers of lactic acid-producing bacteria (including the always popular Lactobacilli) prevent any other bacteria from getting their foot in the sauerkrauty door. Those lactobacilli are an example of the beneficial probiotics mentioned earlier.
One last thing before we jump from theory to practice: the vessel of fermentation. You don’t need any special equipment, only a large container like an earthenware crock, a plastic food container or a large mason jar. Figure that a 1-gallon container will hold about 5 pounds of cabbage. Whatever container you use, don’t seal it: The gases formed by the fermentation have to escape.
1. Start with the freshest cabbage you can find. Straight from your garden or local farmers market would be perfect. Peel away any loose or damaged leaves and wash the head under cold water.
2. Cut cabbages in half through the core, then into quarters, again through the core. Cut the core away from all four pieces and discard. Slice the cabbage as finely as you can.
3. Toss the cabbages with sea salt or pickling salt, roughly 3 tablespoons for every 5 pounds of cabbage. Sea salt also has trace elements of minerals that can enhance the nutritional value of the finished product. Avoid iodized salt or salt with anti-caking elements, which can interfere with the fermentation. While you're tossing, squeeze the cabbage to crush it as much as you can. You could also smash it with a rubber mallet if your love of food gets all tied up with your need to release your inner aggressions. The idea is to extract as much water as you can from the cabbage, so that it combines with the salt to create a brine.
4. Pack the cabbage into your container as tightly as possible, then weigh it down. How you do this depends on your container. If it's an earthenware crock, set a clean plate onto the cabbage and weigh it down with jars of water. If it's a large mason jar, use a slightly smaller mason jar filled with water. It's vitally important that none of the cabbage slips above the surface of the brine during the fermentation, as that will attract some nasty aerobic bacteria. Cover the whole thing with a clean towel to prevent dust or bugs from getting in. Store out of the way at room temperature.
Note: For the first 24 hours, there may not be enough brine to cover the cabbage completely. That’s OK. Every few hours, press down on the cabbage to release more water. After 24 hours, if there’s still not enough brine to cover the cabbage, add salt water to cover (1 teaspoon salt for every cup of water).
5. Check the ferment every day to make sure the brine is covering the cabbage completely. Skim off any scum that may form on the surface and remove any stray bits of cabbage that may have drifted up out of the brine and gotten moldy. Leave the cabbage for 3 to 4 weeks. It should be wonderfully floral and sour. At this point, pack it into smaller jars and store it for up to several months in the fridge. Eat it fresh out of the jar, and you'll get all the benefits of its great taste and its probiotic beasties.
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