The envelope came postmarked Tehran and stuffed with crimson confetti: pure saffron. It came with instructions: crush, seal, steep. It came with thanks. Charlie had saved the sender’s life.

Charlie shared the saffron. He shared the instructions. In a pinch, he’d share the life-saving. He’s generous like that.

Once I read the note, I knew I was guilty. Previously, I’d rolled the red threads between thumb and finger, I’d tossed the crumbles into stew or sauce, I’d appreciated — but not marveled at — saffron’s sweet-hay scent, its golden glow and bitter bite.

The potent spice — stigmas of the saffron crocus, each hand-plucked and sun-dried — deserves the cook’s full focus. Now I, too, have Charlie to thank.

———

HAPPY CLAMS

Prep: 20 minutes

Cook: 25 minutes

Makes: 2 servings

1 bulb fennel with fronds

1 clove garlic, degermed

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced into crescents

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 tablespoons steeped saffron, see method

12 ounces waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 1/2 to 2 cups chicken broth

1/3 cup dry white wine

20 small clams, scrubbed

1/2 cup heavy cream

1. Chop: Snip the frilly fronds from the fennel. Chop fronds with the garlic, lemon zest and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover this fennel gremolata; set aside. Slice the fennel bulb into crescents.

2. Wilt: In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium. Slide in fennel crescents, onions, chopped garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and the red pepper. Cook, stirring, until vegetables wilt, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and steeped saffron. Stir in potatoes.

3. Boil: Pour in enough broth to barely cover potatoes, about 1 1/2 cups. Bring broth to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover pan and cook until potatoes are easy to pierce with a skewer, about 10 minutes.

4. Steam: Pour in wine. Nestle in clams. Cover pan and steam until clams open, 5-7 minutes. Discard any unopened clams.

5. Rest: Stir in cream. Cover pan and let rest over low heat, 2 minutes. Scoop into bowls. Dust with gremolata. Enjoy.

Steeped saffron: Slide saffron threads (at least a tablespoon — better yet, more) into a mortar (or clean spice grinder). Crush to a fine powder. Seal this precious powder in a jar, and store in a cool, dark cupboard. To steep: Measure 1/4 teaspoon saffron powder into a small jar. Pour in 3 tablespoons boiling water. Let steep 30 minutes. Store any unused elixir, tightly sealed, in the refrigerator. It’s the key to brilliant saffron cuisine.

About the Author

Featured

Atlanta Mayor Andre Dickens (right) tours the Vine City neighborhood with his senior advisor Courtney English (left). (Matt Reynolds/AJC 2024)

Credit: Matt Reynolds