The result is De Superette, a bakery and restaurant that opened in 2014 in an old neighborhood grocery in Ghent. A giant wood-fired oven, which Lemke helped build, is the cornerstone of the convivial space, but De Superette evolved into much more than a loaf shop. A third partner, Rose Greene, the chef de cuisine at In de Wulf at the time, took charge of lunch, brunch and dinner, creating locally sourced menus that are also reasonably priced.
On a summer evening, there was shaved white asparagus — still warm from the grill — with egg, sorrel and whey sauce, and a sublime sourdough pizza topped with generous dollops of burrata, bright yellow and green zucchini slices, and fragrant lemon thyme. The heat from the oven warmed the 60-seat restaurant, an industrial space where almost everything — from the reclaimed-wood tables to the unconventional lighting — was either found or made by hand.