It is known as its country’s “breadbasket” and could even be called “cork central,” but Alentejo is also the largest wine region in Portugal. We are talking about a huge area here — roughly one-third of the country’s entire landmass.
Sure, Portugal is a small country compared with many, but it’s not that small. According to my informal eyeballing, it’s roughly the size of Florida minus the panhandle. That’s a lot of land. Now imagine a wine region covering most of the southern third of that land. Further, imagine only 5 percent of that land being devoted to vineyards. Tons of land, but a relatively small number of vines.
The area is probably better known for the nonwine products it turns out, namely cereals, olive oil, beef, pork and, most notably, cork. We know that Portugal is cork central — producing about half of the world’s wine corks — and if the world supply of cork were a dart board, Alentejo would be the bull’s-eye. The region is home to scores of oak trees (Quercus suber, for the botany-curious among you), but only about 5 percent of the Portuguese population (of people). This is a land of wide open spaces.
I guess you could say that it is South Dakota-ish in a way, but with a smattering of vineyards that produce some good, affordable wines. Reds are Alentejo’s forte, but by all accounts the local whites, despite being less common, are continuing to improve. At their best, the reds are ripe, fruity and juicy.
Within the Alentejo region, where temperatures are high and rainfall is low, there are eight subregions: Borba, Evora, Granja-Amareleja, Moura, Portalegre, Redondo, Reguengos and Vidigueira. When a wine hails from one of these places and falls in line with the D.O.C. regulations, it is labeled “DOC Alentejo” no matter which subregion it calls home. That same wine is also allowed to carry the name of its subregion on its label.
Wines that have strayed from the D.O.C. winemaking rules — say, by using nonpermitted grapes or varying the allowed percentages — are labeled “Vinho Regional Alentejano,” which identifies them as wines from the larger region. This does not make them any less interesting, any less tasty or any less prestigious than wine stamped “D.O.C.” In fact, as we have seen in other countries, experimentation with blends can lead to more interesting wines.
The list of permitted grapes in Alentejo is long, but popular red grapes, which vary from subregion to subregion, include alfrocheiro, alicante bouschet, aragonez (the grape called tinta roriz in port country in northern Portugal, and tempranillo elsewhere), castelao and trincadeira. But you might also find cabernet sauvignon and syrah in some red blends. Popular white grapes include antao vaz, arinto, fernao pires and roupeiro. But you might also see viognier in the mix.
A recent tasting stirred up several pleasant surprises. For a wine region that is not on the tip of everyone’s tongue, Alentejo delivers well-made, tasty offerings that are also on the lower end of the price scale. The red wines in this tasting clocked in at 14 percent alcohol or higher, so make sure to pace yourself and savor each sip.
2014 Joao Portugal Ramos Vila Santa Loios: This wine is fruity and fun, full of sweet, ripe cherry and a hint of raspberry, made by perhaps the region’s most famous winemaker and advocate. Composed of 35 percent aragonez, an equal dose of trincadeira (another port grape) and the rest castelao, this is a nice, inexpensive bottle to take to a barbecue or to open when your pizza arrives. $9
2012 Herdade Do Esporao Quatro Castas: Look for the numeral “4” on this wine’s label, referring to the number of grape varieties included in the blend (in equal parts): touriga franca (another common port grape), tinta miuda (aka graciano), alicante bouschet and good ol’ cabernet sauvignon. The wine offers bright red fruits, clean acidity, a hint of spice and a wave of menthol on the finish. $14
2012 Herdade Dos Grous: With 35 percent aragonez, 30 percent alicante bouschet, 20 percent touriga nacional (again, port) and 15 percent syrah, this wine was aged for nine months in new French oak barrels. It is jammy and concentrated with a silky mouthfeel and flavors of plum and black cherry, plus tobacco and black pepper. $14
2012 Paulo Laureano Reserve: This wine from Vidigueira carries the D.O.C. Alentejo stamp and sends forth some complexity in the form of blueberry, smoke, game, cedar and incense. Aged for 14 months in oak barrels and another six months in the bottle, the wine longs for food with big flavors and textures. This, friends, is a steak wine. $24
And now for a couple of delightful white wines from Alentejo.
2013 Monte da Ravasqueira Reserva Branco: On this bottle or any other from Alentejo, when you see “monte” it means “estate.” A 60/40 blend of viognier and alvarinho (aka albarino), with more than half of the blend aged in French oak, this wine sends up floral aromas along with flavors of white peach and apricot. It is refreshing and clean, with a crisp finish. $20
2013 Esporao Reserva: Here is another one from Herdade do Esporao, one of the region’s most prestigious wineries. This time it’s a medium-bodied D.O.C. wine aged partially in French and American oak and made of 30 percent antao vaz, 30 percent arinto, 30 percent roupeiro and 10 percent semillon. Expect layers of honey, stone fruit, lush melon and toast, with a delightful sweetness setting up a clean finish. $20
About the Author
