At the Epicurean Theatre, a culinary classroom at Tampa’s Epicurean Hotel that opened last December, a bevy of 30-something women stifle school-girl giggles and settle in for “A Case of the Mondays,” a wine tasting course that focuses on Washington State wines.
Monday or not, it’s still girls’ night out, and these girls are ready to get this party started.
Vacationing foodies typically regard their hotel as little more than a place to sleep between cooking classes, wine tastings, micro breweries and dining at award-winning restaurants. But those staying at the culinary-themed Epicurean in south Tampa’s historic Hyde Park neighborhood — locals call it SoHo — can embark on a gastronomic odyssey without ever leaving their accommodations.
Even locals enjoy cooking classes at the Epicurean Theatre and many find their way to the swanky rooftop bar or Chocolate Pi, the delectable patisserie.
The 137-room boutique hotel is a partnership between its neighbor across the street, Bern’s Steak House, famous for housing the world’s largest privately owned wine collection, and the Tampa-based Mainsail Lodging and Development Group.
Kevin Pelley, manager of Bern’s Fine Wine & Spirits, the hotel wine shop, welcomes everyone to the wine tasting and gives a presentation that traces the history of winegrowing in Washington state. Discussions ensue about the region’s unique terroir and sustainable viticulture.
When he senses the sorority of wine enthusiasts is getting restless, Pelley stops talking and starts pouring.
The women have a private toast, perhaps to a birthday or a recent engagement. They swirl and sip and enjoy tasty nibbles of meat and cheese. Opinions are exchanged on the refreshing, fruity Kung Fu Girl Riesling and the bold, aromatic Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon. There are the inevitable comparisons to California wines.
Pelley says his goal is to make the wine tastings informative and fun.
“In my classes, I try to foster an interactive atmosphere of dialogue with the guests, rather than a straight lecture,” Pelley says. “I want the attendees to ask questions, give feedback and share their thoughts on the wine.”
Elevage
Most traveling foodies perfunctorily discard the notion of dining at their hotel restaurant much as they would an olive pit or a chunk of fat on a steak. But Elevage, the Epicurean’s signature restaurant, is a big exception.
Despite the fancy name — Elevage is a French term that refers to the progression of wine between fermentation and bottling — the restaurant feels like a familiar neighborhood joint, just a little higher end.
It’s not fussy or pretentious. Classic American fare such as tuna casserole, burgers and steaks are on the menu.
Chef Chad Johnson, a James Beard Award semi-finalist, says the concept is to elevate simple dishes through premium ingredients and well-honed cooking techniques. So no matter what you order, it’s the very best version of that dish you have ever eaten.
“I want to offer the same quality of food and wine as an upscale place, but I want you to feel comfortable putting your elbows on the table,” says Johnson. “In my mind, there’s no reason you can’t put the same quality and passion for the ingredients into the execution of a hamburger as foie gras and truffles.”
Johnson loves socializing with his customers, but forget about making a surprise tableside appearance.
He admits he’s “a little bashful in the dining room,” but he has an open door policy for his bustling kitchen. Even during the dinner rush, he’s always delighted to have company while he oversees the endless parade of steak sandwiches being whisked out to the dining room.
The popular sandwich is described on the menu as “an homage to Bern’s,” a reference to the famous steak house that serves a similar sandwich, but only in the bar. Shaved beef tenderloin is piled high on freshly-baked French baguette and smothered with alpine cheese and caramelized onions. When dipped into the savory, onion-flavored au jus, the humble sandwich is transformed into a carnivore’s dream.
Harry Waugh Dessert Room
To get to the Harry Waugh Dessert Room, a palace of never-ending confections, one must enter the red glare of the Bern’s Steak House lobby, which seems to groan under the weight of its ostentatious Victorian décor. Next, head up the grand staircase and follow the ruby carpet through a maze of booths made from wine casks that serve as private dining compartments.
It’s like falling down the rabbit hole and wondering where this mysterious portal will lead. Well, it leads to sugar-induced bliss. The dessert menu is a tome of cakes, pies, tarts, ice cream sundaes and after-dinner drinks ranging from the ordinary to the extraordinary.
A customer favorite is the macadamia nut sundae loaded with decadent hot fudge and whipped cream and sprinkled with rich macadamias.
For a peek behind the scenes of this venerable dining institution, ask for a complimentary kitchen and wine cellar tour.
Where to Stay:
The Epicurean Hotel is one of the Marriott's Autograph Collection of hotels. 1207 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, Fla. 855-829-2536, www.epicureanhotel.com. Elevage restaurant is inside the Epicurean Hotel. 813-999-8726. Evangeline, the hotel spa, opened in March. It features beauty treatments infused with the flavors of the Epicurean. 813-999-8742
Where to Eat:
The Refinery, a restaurant in Seminole Heights, builds its menu around seasonal farm-to-table ingredients. A new menu featuring innovative cuisine debuts every Thursday. Chef Greg Baker was a James Beard Award semi-finalist for Best Chef South in 2012 and 2013. 5137 N. Florida Ave., Tampa, Fla. 813-237-2000, www.thetamparefinery.com
The Harry Waugh Dessert Room is at Bern's Steak House across from the Epicurean Hotel. 1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, Fla. 813-251-2421, www.bernssteakhouse.com
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