Q: What can you do to save a crape myrtle that has been incorrectly pruned? I have three that were massacred and they look just awful now. Danielle Roberts, email

A: It may take a couple of years but the job is not too hard to accomplish. First, cut the crape myrtle all the way to the ground. Allow new shoots to develop around the stump. There will be several but let them all grow for one season (spring through late fall). In December, remove all but three to four of the straightest, strongest stems. Clip the weaker ones as close to the stump as you can. Use bamboo stakes to support the strong ones through the next growing season. Apply 10-10-10 in early spring, early summer and early fall to push growth along. Water regularly. Assuming it was sized correctly to begin with, the result will be a multi-stemmed crape myrtle that will need little pruning each year.

Q: Our community garden has two cold frames that are 8 feet long, 4 feet wide and 1 foot deep. We’ll only fill them 6 inches high. What should we use to fill them? How much? Kelley Peace, Atlanta

A: Since you are making cold frames to nurture plants in winter, you’ll want to be sure you have the best-quality soil in them. Calculating the volume is simple: 8 feet x 4 feet x 1/2 foot = 16 cubic feet of material needed for each. I have never found bagged topsoil selling for less than $3 a bag to be useful. But I experimented with three bagged commercial raised bed products and was impressed with how well they performed. Details at bit.ly/GAraisedsoil.

Q: I have 20 Leyland cypress trees in full sun. I wish to make it look good and lower the overall height. What is the maximum amount I can prune from the top and not risk detrimental consequences? Mark Cummings, Stockbridge

A: Leyland cypress can be maintained as a nice hedge. The trick is to go in and make deep cuts twice a year, in early April and early August. Reduce a thick, coarse branch by pruning back to a smaller, finer branch. In this way, a soft, fine-textured look can be achieved and maintained.

Never reduce a Leyland’s height by more than a third. Once topped, it must be maintained; otherwise, multiple leaders develop, producing a weak top that’s prone to failure. If you need to remove 3 or more feet of height, do it in late February. Always prune back to a branch; never leave a stub. Understand that this becomes a regular commitment of your time to properly care for the plant.

Email Walter at georgiagardener@yahoo.com. Listen to his comments at 6:35 a.m. on “Green and Growing with Ashley Frasca” Saturday mornings on 95.5 WSB. Visit his website, www.walterreeves.com, or join his Facebook Page at bit.ly/georgiagardener, for his latest tips.