Several years ago, I got a great “grumpy old guy” missive from a reader who was so sick of my constantly writing about passing and sharing small plates. He liked real entrees. Actual main courses. Why couldn’t I write about restaurants that served real portions?
Small plates aren’t going anywhere. But a few notable newcomers have established themselves as tapas-free zones. Atlas, which drips in old-school class and elegance, holds firm to the classic appetizer/entree/dessert format. There is no bite-sized gift from the kitchen nor chef’s tasting menu, only substantial and intricately constructed plates, which are often so good you won’t want to share a bite.
Le Bibloquet, a French brasserie in the Buckhead Atlanta complex, harks back to a timeless menu of foie gras, coq au vin and entrecôte with béarnaise sauce. Share plates? Non, merci!
American Food and Beverage, just down the street, has a few appetizers built for sharing. But this kitchen shows its moxie with complex entrees such as crisp trout with creamy mustard green purée or an astonishing sweet-tea-brined pork shank served with loose grits and a tomato marmalade.
The Luminary in Krog Street Market gives an American accent to its French brasserie menu, and few of the dishes like smoked chicken wings with curry crème fraîche seem made for sharing. But guests opt for an appetizer, such as mustard green salad with apples, followed by, say, a duck breast with turnips. Now that I’m a grumpy old man, I don’t mind this reverse trend at all.
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